I bought one of the Woodland Scenics ‘learning’ waterfall kits today. The instructions say to cut out your foam, plywood or whatever you use to 1/8th inch deep. I use extruded foam as a bench top and I can tell you that it’s not the easiest thing in the world to cut it out to an exact depth and have it uniform all the way. I mean it’s not hard to cut, but to get it the same depth all over is more difficult. So! I was thinking it would be a lot easier to build up instead of digging down. Why not use pieces of 1/8th inch material such a foam and glue it to the extruded foam, leaving a ‘creek’ bed of course, build up the banks with something else (they suggest dampened paper towels), then place the ‘plaster’ cloth included in the kit on top of that. The next step was to paint it, then pour the Realistic Water. I’m assuming the Realistic Water will not escape through the plaster cloth. Am I assuming wrong?
Is this a plan? How do you do water, or rather prepare the place FOR the water?
Thanks,
Jarrell
Does it say exactly 1/8"? I’ve never worried too much about how deep it was. I presume they say 1/8" so you don’t end up needing lots of “water” material to make the stream. In fact I would think a non-even “bottom” would be better.
Sounds reasonible to me. I’ve not used the woodland scenics brand water, but the kinds I have used need the paint and or plaster to keep the “resin water” from eating through the foam.
And if the creek runs off the edge or through the edge of the layout don’t forget to build a dam. I used high quality masking tape at either end…
Yes, with this particular kit they don’t put very much of the ‘water’ in it so they say you have enough to make a ‘river’ 1/8th deep, by 2 1/2 wide by 6 inches long. Just enough to learn how to work with it I guess. It has 3 small jars of paint in it also. In the directions they just have you lay the plaster cloth in the bed of the river and paint it with the supplied paint and pour the water in. I don’t know, maybe the water doesn’t go through that. They did say to use masking tape across t
I too like to make my creek bottoms irregular. Nature is rarely flat and square. I’ve made them up to 3/4" deep in extruded foam (filled PARTIALLY with realistic water). The water should not come up even with the tops of the banks in most cases. Pour deep sections 1/8 inch at a time and let it dry for a day or too before adding the next layer.
No had any problems with this product melting the foam even where the paint is thin. I like to undercut the outside of a curve and add small sand bars to the insides of curves.
Your idea of building up the banks will work too. Just be careful to seal the seams between the layers of foam. Have fun experimenting.
I’ve got a similar situation in my future. My plan is to gouge out the hole in the foam, and then cut a piece of thin styrene to match. That way I can have a flat-bottomed place for the pour. The styrene will be painted to simulate depth changes.
Hopefully today I get a chance to give it a try. Thanks for the suggestions.
Jarrell
Hot wire is great for carving and shaping installed foam. The 1/8" deep instruction must be refering to the pour of the Realistic Water. It can only be poured in 1/8" increments or it won’t cure/ dry properly. You can cut out your foam to any depth that looks and works for the scenery. I always scenic the banks and creek/ stream bottoms can add debris rocks, trees etc then pour the water. After experimenting with the WS water, I am not that thrilled with any lasting results. Envirotex lite does a far better job and has a much more durable finish. The WS Realistic Water loses it’s real flat appearance and stays rubbery. For very large ponds, lakes and rivers, the painted base and gloss medium is an alternative to pouring resin for the water.
Bob K.
Bob K. what is Envirotex lite and where would you find it ? Thanks, Marty
I would think that if you had some kind of roundish heated tool, you could create gullies in the foam without even cutting it (the hot wire method). An old tacking iron comes to mind. I have one so I think I will try it and see what happens.
george
Bob, in this learning kit they include a small bottle (very small) of the Realistic Water, just enough for a ‘river’ 1/8th" D x 2 1/2"W x 6" long. In this case, I think that’s where the 1/8th comes in although I know you’re right in that you shouldn’t pour but 1/8th inch at the time if pouring more.
Thanks,
Jarrell
I wonder if you use those on extruded foam do you get the not-good-for-you fumes?
Jarrell
Stinky fumes, but not deadly. Anything that burns or melts and gives off fumes is not good for your lungs, so ventilation is suggested.
Here’s a product on sale on e-Bay: 6051003287 Although I haven’t used it myself, I have seen it used and have handled the finished product. If you have a bowl of this stuff and a bowl of water sitting side-by-side, it is hard to toll which one is the water!
It is supposed to have a long shelf life, can be tinted, worked into rapids, etc. I talked with the owner of the company about making test kits, but it wasn’t cost-effective for him. Maybe I’ll call him again and ask if I could make up the kits myself.
Sure looks like a great product.
Darrell, looking wet, and quiet…for now
Thanks Darrell. For anyone else that may be interested here is some of what the maker says about the product.
“It creates no heat,will not melt plastic or styrofoam, and needs no heating or layering and has indefinite shelf life, even after its opened. Each box contains 18oz’s of product, enough to do approximately a 10” X 15" area 1/4" deep, thats 150 sq inches, or a 20" X 15" area 1/8" deep! Thats 300 sq inches! You can pour it as deep as you want, and, no layering. MAGIC WATER may also be tinted with inks and oil based paints. MAGIC WATER sets up in about 12 hours and is completely set in 24 hours. It also has no noxious fumes like others and is completely safe. Model streams, rivers, lakes, ponds, harbors, waterfalls, swamps,etc. etc. Also included is a multi page color tech booklet with step by step instructions and photos for making many of these projects right down to the lilypads!"
I wonder…
no fumes, won’t eat foam, no layering and completely dry in 24 hours. That’s quite a product.
Jarrell
Extruded foam will compress somewhat. Find a 1/8" thick piece of wood of the size you need and tap it into to the top of the foam. Remove the wood and you’ll have a 1/8" depression.
Stu
Marty,
Envirotex is a 2 part resin. Should be able to find it a Michael’s or other craft store. You have seen the resin on bar/ table tops, redwood clocks etc. Very durable finish. It will level out to perfectly flat/ glass like. Has a tendency to creep up objects such as rocks, river banks and pilings. Like a high water mark. Touch up of scenery or dull coat cures this if unwanted.
Bob K.
That’s an idea. Thanks Stu
Jarrell
Ahhh… so THATS what it is! Ok, I remember seeing it for the first time years ago in a resturant in Florida somewhere. At first I thought it was water.
Jarrell
For creek beds and ditches I used Acitone painted on the extruded foam.
You have no debris to clean up and it’s fast. But a word of CAUTION, and I do mean [-CAUTION].
I use a sable brush and dry bru***o area of the creek. This product will burn through the foam if you use to much. Start with scrap foam until you have mastered to product.
I insert about half of the brisle into the thinner, shake off the access and paint in onto the foam. Work slow or you will experience trouble. Take your time, you can go over the area several times without any problems. You will find that it creats very uneven banks that look very protipicle.
If you need any more information E-Mail me at:
nealmelancon@att.net
Or call me any time :
337-988-6746
Happy Railroading[8D]
Thanks Darrell. For anyone else that may be interested here is some of what the maker says about the product.
“It creates no heat,will not melt plastic or styrofoam, and needs no heating or layering and has indefinite shelf life, even after its opened. Each box contains 18oz’s of product, enough to do approximately a 10” X 15" area 1/4" deep, thats 150 sq inches, or a 20" X 15" area 1/8" deep! Thats 300 sq inches! You can pour it as deep as you want, and, no layering. MAGIC WATER may also be tinted with inks and oil based paints. MAGIC WATER sets up in about 12 hours and is completely set in 24 hours. It also has no noxious fumes like others and is completely safe. Model streams, rivers, lakes, ponds, harbors, waterfalls, swamps,etc. etc. Also included is a multi page color tech booklet with step by step instructions and photos for making many of these projects right down to the lilypads!"
I wonder…
no fumes, won’t eat foam, no layering and completely dry in 24 hours. That’s quite a product.
Jarrell
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From what I’ve seen of the finished product and a short demonstration of it’s use, I’m convinced that this stuff does what it’s advertised to do! It also doesn’t yellow with age!
When I’m ready to try some water, I’m going to use this product. It looks so easy to use, I should be able to do it myself!! LOL
Darrell, still wet behind the ears, and quiet…for now