I just recieved the digital level that Micro Mark sells (http://www.micromark.com/MINIATURE-DIGITAL-LEVEL,9409.html) and I must say I really like it. In just the few few hours that I have had it I was able to tweek my helix to a much more accurate angle. I also have found a number of places that where my track is level it really is not. A bubble level was used to build the bench work and even laying the level on the track it still shows level however, I think the bubble level is sitting on high points and the little imperfections are not showing up. Now the spots I have found that are not level are mostly less than 1% grade along the length of the track. Also, when I have found a place where the track was not level the areas just to the left and right of it were level so, I am not too worried about those.
I am happy with this little tool but my wife rolled her eyes as she knows just how accurate I like things to be. As I continue to redo my track work I will be now be even more careful about making sure things are level and at the correct grade. I know even a real RR is not perfectly flat on the flat sections. I have watched engines bounce around on the track as they hit little bumps and valleys. I also know that our HO models do not have the same mass as the real things. So, what would be a good tolerence for level? If I need a 2% grade and part of the grade is 2.24% and another is 1.96% is that “OK” or should I pull my tolerence in even tighter?
Who else has used this digital level? What other uses have you found for it on the RR?
If you are running long trains and care about consistent performance, that much variation in grade may be noticeable. If you are running relatively short trains, probably not at all.
And it probably goes without saying that the ruling grade is usually the steepest section (unless it’s very short), not the average grade.
The levels are fine, as long as you accept the tolerances and understand they are accumulative. Thats meaning that if the level is accurate to within 1/16 for the length of the level, and your layout is 10x the length of the level, you ‘could’ be out as much as 5/8" overall.
As for the grades, thats a loaded question. You certainly don’t want any speed bumps, ramps or drop-offs, but if your grade varies smoothly , and stays under your max grade allowed, you are good. A lot of that depends on the terrain. Railroads didn’t want to spend any more money than what was needed to get the line in, so moving a bunch of dirt to even the grade out wasn’t a priority as long as those grades didn’t exceed their limits.
Byron, My layout is a branchline off the PRR in the late 40’s. I do not expect to run really long trains but you point is well taken. I will make sure the grades are as close to even and consistent as possible.
Good point Tom. When the bench work and track were installed a 4’ bubble level was used. This digital level is approx. 2" long. My plan was to lay the 4’ bubble level back on the bench work and then place the digital level on top. I want to get the track work as close to level or the required grade as I can get it.
The ground is rarely flat and smooth, and I am captivated by the undulations of many roadbeds. Especially for branches and shortlines, one should consider modeling them by intent or sloppiness.
I looked at digital levels and found to get one that worked well with our hobby I would need to get an expensive one. The cheap ones would often have different readings on the same surface. I thought I would spend the money on something else. Plus a digital level would have driven me nuts as I would always be trying for perfection.
I used this small bubble level all over the layout. When I was doing the super elevation on my curves I had to mark where the bubble was with a pencil just to be sure I was accurate. The tolerances in the curves were too fine to just use the lines already on the level.
Bubble levels are ok, and work well, IF you remember to swap the ends of them around, note the “new” readings and split the difference. As a standard procedure, it is best to do this for any level you choose- pricey or cheap, fluid or digital.
Like Brent, I also mark the best approximation of “real” level on the glass. Since few of us are making museum pieces, close is usually all we need.
I’ve been using one borrowed from a good friend, It’s one foot long. It’s amazing how much you can go up or down when setting risers (cookie cutter) if you even move the molecules in the room by just breathing! I found it hard to set 1.9% as a goal and not end up with 2%-2.1%, etc. I DID like it much better than a bubble level as it gives %s without calculations and jig like gizmos. It also took me awhile to realize that after temporarily setting a riser in place that you had to go back to it after setting the next succeeding one to get it nigh perfect. I think this tool is great for setting grades relatively quickly and encourage everyone to at least try one. I would recommend one at least 12" long though as it makes things easier to see any little dips in the roadbed.
My digital level is equipped with a lazer on one end- it was quite handy when I was trying to build my logging line up into the hills. The red dot becomes a red line running along the cork roadbed and it points out every little hump or dip- a truly marvelous tool for us compulsive types. It also freaked my next door neighbor when I put the red dot on his newspaper as he picked it up in the front yard.
I’ve got one of these listed in the link below, which i got for free.I have a good friend who is a finish carpenter and he bought it at a trade show and used it for about a week or so and went back to his old bubble level. I was visiting him at his shop and saw it sitting on a work bench and asked him how he liked it. He used language I can’t use here on the family forum but said hey if you want it take it. So I did. The only thing it’s good for is checking your grade calculations. As far as checking track work for level I used to be anal about doing that until I saw Howard Zane in one of the Allen Keller video’s when he explained how his track work isn’t exactly level and how they found it out by accident when some friends installed some sections of track and told him that they didn’t come out right and when they ran a train over the section the train rocked back and forth a truly prototypical motion which when u think about it is absolutely correct so when was the least time you sw a real train run like it was on a billiard table, the best thing is when friends look at my trains swaying side to side I tell them thats how it’s supposed to be just go ask Howard…lol. Long story short a neat toll but just another gizmo, my money would be better spent on a new piece of rolling stock or a turnout.
