Havent been in the train room in about two months, went out tonight to fiddle around switch locos move them on and off the turntable. My Zephyr is set up as the brain unit not a place to control trains. I use a DT-400 handheld to control my trains. In the middle of operations the screen on my DT 400 went blank and the zephyr displayed this “-SLP” I looked in my book but didnt find any code for this. I have no clue what happened any answers
Also I looked at Digitrax site but found no answer
I contacted Digitrax and hope to have an answer
“oh its on,y two wires to your track”
Yeah but is a college course requirement to understand MU’ing and CV values
nothing is ever easy
thanks for your asnwer at least I know what it did
Hope you can remember what buttons you hit, as i had no idea the Zephyr even HAD a sleep mode (it’s a toggle switch on a DB150 and DCS100).
Try removing power - as in pull the AC adapter power from the Zephyr. Or just hit Exit a few times (on the Zephyr itself, not the one on the DT400). Failing that, see the section in the back of the Zephyr manmual about resetting the unit.
UNIONPACIFIC4018,
I had the same thing once happen to me (and I’ve had my Zephyr since they came out). All I did was unplug everything (just the UR91 and the Zephyr in my case)…wait 30 seconds…then plug it all back in again. Everything came back online just fine after that.
MU’ing isn’t that bad with a DT400. It’s a little more complicated with Digitrax because of the twin throttle feature, but otherwise it’s OK.
And you really shouldn’t be worring too much about CV’s unless you are getting into advanced features like momentum, speed curves, lighting effects, etc. Addresses, while they are technically CV’s, are pretty straight forward on a DT400.
If you need any advice, ask away! [:)] I’m sure we can walk you through it, step by step, if need be. You may also want to try out the Digitrax Yahoo! group…
I will go out tonight and see
Any of you guys add a booster to your zephyr?
My layout fills the garage and I was wondering if a booster would be neccesary one day.
UNIONPACIFIC4018,
I’ve got a 25’ x 50’ home layout with 200’ of double track mainline, and I operate it weekly with three people using as many as 6 engines at at time (one of them w/sound)…and I’ve never run up against the 2.5amp limit.
IMHO, a booster is not needed as long as it passes the “quarter” test…that is when you put a quarter on the track at the furthest point away from the booster, and if it doesn’t trip the breaker, you need to add a booster. If not, you’re OK.
You may also need a booster if you have a lot of sound engines on the layout. The capacitors in these can cause the booster to shut down when it tries to reset…over and over and over. The quickie solution is not to have so many sound engines on the layout powered at one time…
No sound trains for me
I have heard them and I am just not impressed
I have seen the real thing and I do not want a scaled down version of sound
I have been looking at one of those whistles that runs off of a compressor
supposed to simulate most any whistle
man my neighbors would really hate me
If you are not going to threaten the 2.5 amp limit, the only other issue is whether or not you are going to break the layout into power districts. If you do, an additional booster is one option, and off the top of my head the highest cost.
In Paul’s case, if all 6 of the locos were sound-equipped I’d be more concerned.
If I unplug the loconet cable that runs to all of my jacks that go around my layout the Zephyr seems to work okay also if I plug my DT-400 into the back of the Zephyr it functions just fine. So I am guessing its messed up wiring due to my loconet cables. As to why it says SLP due to this makes no sense
The reply I got from Digitrax was to send the unit back in for repair with my credit card number ha ha ha.
I mean a Zephyr really doesnt break the bank and if ti costs me more than half of what it costs to just buy a new one I will just buy a new one.
Now you need to plug the Loconet back in and start pulling off pieces from the far end until you isolate the problem. If you used the flat phone cable for wiring, you probably have a UP somewhere with the wires crossed inside the phone jack. Those little contacts inside the jack and get displaced with rough handling and when you plug in the cable get pushed down against the adjacent conductor instead of where it should be, causing a short. By working backwards from the far end you will find the point of the problem quickly.