After viewing numerous layouts over the years, one thing that subtracts from their authenticity is the unrealistic bright lighting, in my opinion. I’ve seen some magnificent layouts along with their incongruous glaring lights from the blockbuster Springfield, Mass. annual show to club layouts scattered throughout the Northeast.
I came up with a simple, realism solution for my N Scale layout. After installing building-interior and street lighting (black period light poles with lamps), I hooked-up all of the wires to my spare DC controller thinking that it’s a simple rheostat that would do the job. And of course, it worked . . . beautifully! All of my lights are incandescent. They were piling up on a shelf so I decided to install them during Covid (a great down-time project bty). I even connected a church with its stained glass windows glowing beautifully and realistically on my now nocturnal layout.
I added a caution, and that is: I placed a “do not exceed” lighting limit on the throttle-dimmer knob control’s circular path. By slowly increasing power up to the maximum level of brightness and then backing off, I found that “sweet-spot” where the lighting appeared to be realistic, slightly on the dim side for a nocturnal effect. I then added a blob of “Silly Putty” on the circular path of the throttle control knob marking that sweet-spot location as a “Stop”. This will prevent any accidental increases in power where the tiny light bulb filaments could burn out. This thing can get pretty bright when at maximum power.
Why put a power limit mark on the controller when you can add power resistors for wattage control and fuse ahead of that to protect the transformer. Better to pop a few fuses than over heat a transformer with no thermal protection ?? But yes the incandescent lights with dimmer control makes for better daytime nighttime appearance. Im doing the same with mine. It’s a no brainier. But I am thinking of putting a governor on the transformer so when my Grandson comes over. Lol
Because, at the time, I didn’t know any better thus I wouldn’t know how to do what you described.
However, this was very simple and it works well. That throttle is not going anywhere beyond the Playdough which is actually “Adhesive Putty” Thanks for the suggestion.
No, I know it works. LEDs have their place: headlights, ditch lights, factories, or engine shops. Most other placements are just too cold.
Incandescent bulbs have their place.
@ Greenlantern, why not set the power remove the knob, better yet supper glule the rheostat shaft…
Pep
That works to. It’s all the fancy of the guy doing the work. And if it works and makes you happy …that’s all that counts. I really like what he did. I’m sure it looks nice. Power limiter works just fine. I’m just talking from putting a smaller wattage bulb on the supply side and blowing the little bulb. And the trick of making them all shine at the same brightness. But use the same wattage and the power limiter and light up the city. It’s a beautiful thing.
I think he means that LED’s are too bright or harsh (“cold”). That was the point of my topic although I used mostly incandescent bulbs with some LED’s inside buildings that are dimmed. Photographing my layout at night doesn’t capture the nocturnal atmosphere created by the dimmer. Lighting in the photos looks bright.
I use warm white LEDs, so either type works for me. In fact, I’ve changed all my home lighting to warmer color temp, 3000K or lower. Makes the place look comfy.
I do have boxes of old incandescent 12v panel lights to use up. I normally installed them as two in series, to spread out the light source, extend their life and make them dimmer. Where only one bulb is appropriate or fits, I should put a resistor in line - thanks for the hint.
I agree with Canalligator. The first LEDs were bright white and gave a ‘cold’ feel. I also use the warmer colors, and it’s almost impossible to tell the difference between them and incandescent bulbs.
Agree.
I’m not sure if this thread is about room lighting or on-board lighting? These days I’m strictly LED with both.
My layout room has provisions for what I call ‘working lights’ and ‘running lights’. The working lights are panel LED lay-in troffers, mostly 2’ x 4’ or 2’ x 2’ but there are some recessed LED flood lights, too. Usually when I’m doing a work session these are all illuminated.
Now, when I’m running trains all those ‘stadium’ lights are off and I turn on the LED spots, both track lighting and recessed 3" ‘mini cans’ which are all on dimmers. One drawback with LED room lighting is that at the lowest voltage they only go down to about 20-25% of full brightness. I’m OK with that but there are times I’d like them with even lower light output.
Thank you! Been workin’ on it for a while, every moment enjoyable!
Yes, that’s the Walther’s Bascule bridge. Like nearly all walther’s motorized offerings it took a little ‘finesse’ to get it to operate smoothly but it has been running OK now for about 20 years.
I use an old (1962?) Aristo Craft throttle. My building and street lights are connected to the DC output so I can turn the throttle to vary the brightness.
