I plan on installing grab irons on a Bachmann GP7. From what I have read it is best to completely disassemble the body parts before starting. I have never disassembled the body parts, only removed them from chassis to work on the innards. Are all of the handrails and stanchions simply friction fitted? Do cabs seperate from the rest of the body easily or do I need to break glue joints. I don’t want to force anything and end up with a bigger project than what I started with.
Thanks,
Roger
Never taken one of those apart. Generally, if it’s glued, I’d say leave it alone. You basically need to be able to access the shell to drill the holes, then glue the grabs, from behind so it’s neater. Anything beyond those minimums will likely just be making more work. Remember that you can reach in with a dab of glue to secure the grabs from behind with atoothpick or other applicator.
Mike, Thanks for the reply. The least I will need to remove are all the handrails including the front and rear. Are these friction fitted?
Whenever I see photos of diesels being detailed or repainted, the cab, the hoods, and walkways are always seperated. Is this easily done?
Thanks,
Roger
If the GP7 is consistent in the way it was built with Bachmann GP35’s, then all the parts and body components should press fit and snap together. I usually take it slow with a surgical hemostat with the railings and grab irons.
Mark H
The handrails may be in the way for drilling the necessary holes, but they’re usually a press fit and can be removed fairly easily. As Mike notes, you’ll need to remove the body shell from the frame/mechanism in order to glue them in place.
While the following how-to is rather lengthy, it was learned over the course of adding grabirons to almost all of my locos and rolling stock which, if all that have passed through my hands are included, likely totals over a thousand pieces.
If there are locator dimples for drilling, use them. Otherwise, mark out the drilling locations as accurately as you can, as it will affect the finished appearance. I like to use a set of draughting dividers both for measuring and marking, as you can set them to both the width of the grabirons being used and to the required spacing, then use the points to create centres for your drill bit. For drilling in plastic and thin metal, I prefer to use a pinvise - in plastic, most motorised tools turn the bit too rapidly, causing heat which can make the holes larger than desired. While it’s slightly over-size, I use a #79 drill bit, which works well for HO scale grabirons, most of which are formed from .012” wire.
After the holes have been drilled, insert the wire grabs. If you have trouble getting them started in the holes, shorten one of the “legs”. To do this, I use an old #11 blade in an X-Acto. Wearing eye protection, place the grab on a hard work surface (I use a sheet of glass), then, using the heel of the blade and while holding the piece to be saved, press down firmly - the unwanted portion will be snicked-off cleanly, allowing you to insert the legs one-at-a-time.
This method works when forming your own custom-made grabs, too, and is useful on soft brass wire up to about .020”, and smaller diameters of phosphor bronze, stainless steel, and music wire. For larger wire sizes and for brass or plastic tubing, use
If your project is soley installing grab irons, I would only remove the handrails from the shell and the shell from the chassis. I would not try to take the entire shell apart, there is no point to that.
I have done a fair amount of grab iron installations, but not on the bachmann GP7. They handrails should be press fitted, but sometimes the assembly line will install them before the paint is cured, sometimes making them difficult to just pry up. If this happens, I use just a tad of 90% alcohol on a tip of a hobby blade to help loosen the paint under the handrail near the hole. Alcohol is used as a paint stripper, so be careful not to use too much, but its a much better problem to touch up a small smudge in the paint on the sill than to break a stuck handrail from prying too hard.
On the bachmann, I think the ends are smooth, with no guide dimples for drilling holes. Therefore, I would strongly suggest getting a jig that would help you space and align the grabs correctly. Crooked and uneven grab irons look bad. There is a producer that makes a brass jig just for grab iron alignment, but the name escapes me. Google.
Also, after installed and secured you will likley have to trim the grabs on the inside of the shell in order for the shell to again slide over the chassis. Otherwise, the long grab wires might interfere with the locomotive’s innards.
Good luck.
Among others, BLMA makes a grab iron jig.
I would remove the shell from the chassis . No need to disassemble the shell. I would think only the front and back end handrail are the only ones that would be in your way. I bought a couple of these jigs for some GP7s I am going to do. http://www.blmamodels.com/cgi-bin/webstore/shop.cgi?c=search.blue.htm&t=main.blue.htm&categories=01001-00010
Ron High
Thanks everybody,
I have the BLMA jig on order and it should arrive today. For the grab irons I planned to remove only the handrails. As far as other disassembly of the body, I just wanted to understand it for possible future detailing projects. I read all these articles about painting and such, and they always show all the pieces taken apart but they don’t say what’s involved in doing that. If this grab iron project goes well, I’ll probably look at doing MU hoses and air brake hoses next.
Thanks again,
Roger