I am taking my old n scale apart. I seemed to have had a lot of trouble with derailments over my old turnouts. Can anyone recomend a good reliable turnout for my new modular design. I also used elmers glue for my ballast, can this track be reused or shall i just scrap it. Thank you.
Elmers is water soluble, just wet it down, wait a bit, and you should be able to remove it without damage. Of course you’ll have to remove any nails beforehand.
What brand of turnouts do you have now?
Brad
While elmers can be wetted, prying it up can still cause headaches and derailments later from what I have read as it can warp your track in pulling it up.
I used caulk to “glue” my track down…it was easy to “peel up” with a putty knife {actually it was a bent cake frosting spreader} when I wanted to change and expand my layout {a job not completed}. Perhaps you can consider this idea this time?
What brands died on you? MAny will suggest anything but Atlas, but mine have served me well.
[8-|]
i have atlas turnouts now.
Without ordering through a catalogue or ordering from the local ‘train’ store I’m left with either Atlas Code 80 (yuck) track/turnouts or Peco from the train store. I haven’t seen them carry any Peco C80 track itself, but they have both electro-frog and insul-frog turn outs in code 55 and code 80.
The Peco has really fat ties, but their code 55 is really their code 80 sunk deeper into the tie. I also hear the tie spacing is more European than American, but that’s one of those things I’m sure only rivet counters really notice.
I do hear Micro Engineering is really good, but you could also look around and hand lay your own turn outs. If you have a large number Fast Tracks make jigs that seem expensive but from what I’ve seen balance out after a dozen or so turn outs, so anyone runnign a medium or large layout would be saving money.
Model railroader also did an article I think last fall about hand laying N scale turn outs. Pretty good read.
I have had good success with Peco. They are very robust and you can get them in either code 80 or code 55. The only problems I have is when I forget to align the points correctly [:-^]
Scott
Another vote for Peco. While they aren’t perfect, I like Peco turnouts. I use Peco55 for spurs and sidings. Atlas or Peco flex track and sectional track with Peco80 turnouts for main lines.
Go to the Fast Tracks web site and check out their video’s on how to use their turnout jigs. (and many other video’s). Their full kits come COMPLETE with the jig and everything that you need to make a number of turnouts (4 or 5???) including a point and frog jig, solder, ties, PCB ties and rail. You can also order anything extra that you may require including tools.
As was said earlier, the more turnouts that you build, the cheaper they are. Up here in the Great White North, Peco turnouts are now in the $25.00+ range and the Atlas brand are not much cheaper. Add in the combined 13% Provincial and Federal Taxes and you are over $30.00. Once you build more than about 8 or so, (the cost of the kit divided by the number of turnouts that you have built) your price is getting down into the lower $20 range and after that, your cost is for raw materials only.
That sound like what i am looking for. i would love to make my own turnouts. I am building a modular yard and i am going to have 13 total turnouts. 1st N scale that i am taking apart piece by piece, so i do not understand exactly what code means? I was going to shift to HO, but NO, I am an N guy just because it is more challenging. I do not want to bash atlas. Just looking for a better soluton. 13 turnouts just for good luck. Thanks guys.
I seem to be having the same issue with two switches on my layout and a corner, it’s frustrating is atlas’ sectional track suppose to have gaps?
Code refers to the height of the rail in 1000’s of an inch as compared to real track. Code 55 track looks more realistic than the higher Codes when veiwed with a train on it. The trick is to take your time in laying your roadbed and make sure that it is smooth and level.
When laying your track, use the silicone method, (cheap is good). Run a thin bead down the middle of your roadbed (cheap is better) and then spread it out to the edges of your tie placement VERY THINLY with an old credit card or small spatula. You do not want it to ooze up between the ties. Before you put the track down, run a few passes with a file over the TOP INSIDE CORNER of EACH piece of track end to remove any burr that might catch a wheel flange and cause a derailment.
An important thing to remember is, DO NOT PUT ANY GLUE OR SILICONE UNDER ANY MOVING PART OF A TURNOUT. [banghead] I only put a little under the last couple of ties of the point and frog ends and I do not solder the turnout in place. It makes it much easier to remove if necesary.
Actual gaps will cause problems. These often arise from problems in alignment and can be challenging to completely eliminate with sectional track. Many folks use flextrack to reduce the number of joints and make it easier to align everything.
If you think that would be an enjoyable challenge, that’s great. If this is your first or second layout you are building, it’s a jump up in skills.
But note that many successful and reliable N Scale layouts have been built with off-the-shelf turnouts from Atlas, PECO, and Micro Engineering (among others).
One of the issues you may be having is with the Atlas turnouts that are used on the original layout. The “Standard” N scale Code 80 switches are pretty tight and if the track is not laid with care, even the smallest “kink” in the connecting track can cause problems. And many pieces of N scale equipment sold today are too long for the tight curves of these “Snap” style switches.
The new Atlas Code 55 line has much finer rail and somewhat broader turnouts, which makes for great appearance and good running. But be aware that some of your older rolling stock may have deeper flanges that will have trouble on this track.
PECO Code 55 track does not have quite as realistic an appearance, but in my experience operates in a rock-solid fashion. Because of its unique design it will handle your older rolling stock fine.
So the jig-built Fast Track turnouts are great if you want to make the initial investment and learn the skills. But it’s certainly not necessary to jig-build turnouts to have reliable operation.
Best of luck.
next layout is definitely going to be a flex track one but first I’m going to try and solve the current problem, I had an idea, I need something to fill the gap(s).
That might help, but if the gaps are caused by the build-up of small mis-alignments, as is often the case, you will be better off tearing up and relaying those areas to eliminate the gaps and kinks.
(sigh) it will be even harder now that the track’s all ballasted. next layout I will definitely have to be much more tactical in my track laying.
I use styrene strips to fill gaps on my n scale layout. Even after ballasting.
Whether the gaps are purposeful for insulation or the result of poor workmanship on my part, the styrene works great.
Just pick a strip that fits the gap, cut a short piece, put some superglue on it and put it in the gap.
Once the glue is set, come back with an xacto knife or wire/rail nipper and slice away any excess, so the styrene conforms to the rail profile. It can be painted. But the tops will be almost always show a little white (because the paint is removed when rail is cleaned) although not really noticeable to me.
ok I’ll try that, where to find an xacto knife maybe blitz hobbies will have some when I visit tomorrow for my biweekly visit.
On my old layout i mounted some turnouts on maybe a 1-2 percent grade. is this ok or not a recommended pracitice. Also what about having a turnout in a tunnel. I am trying to stay away from that design but it would add a lot more options.I am designing a new layout and looks like peco. The selection looks great. And i like the contact points. Thanks for the advise.