Not sure what the correct term is - growing up, they were called switches. But, anyway…
I have some manual switches w/ the big black chunk of plastic on the side for controlling the switch. I want to remove that chunk for aesthetic reasons. Is it meant to be removed easily, or will I need to take the dremel tool to it?
Thanks
Depends a lot on the manufacturer. I believe most turnout actuators can be removed, sometimes by unscrewing from below the turnout, sometimes by carefully prying the actuator away from the turnout (it’s held on by plastic tabs).
Take a very close look at your turnout. You should be able to tell how the actuator is held in place. One clue to look for underneath is if any ties extend to the actuator. If they do, they’re probably molded as one piece with the actuator mechanism on top of the extended ties. If that’s the case, it’s Dremel time!
Post a picture if possible. That’ll give us more information and get you better suggestions.
They are Atlas switches, and the actuator seems to be held on by plastic tabs.
This is one of those things that if you can’t see how to do it yourself you should just not do it.
If I am not mistaken on some of the newer Atlas Snap switches they are just clipped in so to speak. Just take a small flat blade screw driver and pry up gently on the switch machine pushing outward depending on how you have them held down if their just held in with track nails pull them up and remove them if you glued them down and have glue on the bottom of that big ugly clunky switch machine your in for a bit of a problem. More then likely your break them before getting the part to come off.
As I recall, Atlas switch machines are usually screwed on from the bottom. If you turn the switch over you would see 2 small machine screws on the side of the switch machine holding it onto the side of the switch. Un do the screws and it comes right off.
Enjoy
Paul
The typical Atlas switch machine, manual or electric, looks something like this: http://www.atlasrr.com/Images/Track/Trackphotos/62.jpg
If I recall, the way they are normally installed is to angle the throw bar end of the machine in first and engage the little tab that inserts into the hole in the throwbar. The single tab on the machine will start to engage the mating tab on the switch. Then swing the opposite end of the machine into position until the double tabs on the machine engage the mating tab on the switch. (This is all done easiest with the parts on a flat surface.) To remove the machine, you pry with a flat bladed object between the machine and the switch and move the machine sideways, bacically reversing the installation process.
You’ll note from the link picture that there are two screw holes. The machine will normally stay attached without these screws. But if the screws have been installed, you will need to remove them. If you look at the bottom of the assembly, you will see two nuts in a counter-bored holes. These will probably drop out when you remove the screws, so don’t take the parts apart if you are working over a reactor vessel or other location where foreign objects could be detrimental.
Good luck.
Followup question - am I losing anything by removing the control mechanism? I hate the look of them, but if manually moving the rails by hand will cause problems, I may decide to keep them.
Thanks.
If you remove the mechanism, there will be nothing to hold the points (the moving rails) against the stock rails. This may or may not cause an electrical discontinuity depending upon how the Atlas switches are internally wired, but will almost certainly cause a derailment if the points move out of position and a train enters from the point (moving rail) end.
You will need some sort of mechanism to hold the points in position. Caboose Hobbies makes one type of mechanism that sort of resembles a hand throw.
Bummer. So do most people leave the mechanism on there and do their best to hide it?
The cheapest and easiest solution are Caboose Industries Grown throws. Not my cup of tea but a lot of folks like em and their cheap and they work and are definetly far better then those twin coils pieces of junk.
Yeah, what articulated said. I meant to say Caboose Industries, not Caboose Hobbies. Here is a link to their website: http://www.cabooseind.com/index2.php?page=GroundThrows.
We are talking HO, correct? Probably the most economical way for you to go would be to get the 5202S. This is quantity 5 of the HO sprung 0.190 inch travel hand throws. You should be able to get them at a discount somewhere.
You didn’t say what type of Atlas switches you have (i.e.: snap switches, customline etc). One thing you’ll need to watch out for when you install the ground throws is that whatever piece of equipment you have with the greatest overhang doesn’t snag the ground throw as it passes by. In all probability if your equipment doesn’t snag what you have now you shouldn’t have a problem, but I mention this so you don’t yell at me later for not telling you.
Thanks for the info. I’m using N-scale, by the way.
So, do people who don’t like the appearance of the manual mechanism generally use electrical switches below board level? There’s no way to get reliable manual turnout operation without either the original mechanism or a ground throw?
N scale? Oh, real bummer. Wish I’d known that. Well, you can throw out my posts relating to the way that the machine is attached to the turnout, because they were based on the assumption that the turnout was HO. N scale Atlas turnouts may be different.
I think it would be better to say that there is no way to get reliable manual operation without some sort of additional mechanism, either manual above the table or something below. However, the below the table mechanism does not necessarily need to be electrically operated. There are different available methods using bell cranks, choke cables, etc. There is also a method that uses a slide switch, but that mounts above the table.
If you think that you might be interested in such a mechanism, I’d suggest you open a new thread stating that you’d like to use some below the table manual mechanism to throw your N scale turnouts and ask for suggestions. That way any good information you get won’t be lost under the “dismantling” heading.
Regards
Yeah, I’m not willing to do something under-table, so I’ll explore above-ground options. Thanks.
Hello feh
I model in HO, but the process would be the same. I use 1" foam on top of 3/8" plywood, so I just cut out a piece of the foam large enough to accomodate the size of the “junk” twin coil switch machine (of which I’ve never had a problem with) and then use a piece of 18 gauge wire with two right angle bends cut to the proper length and slipped into the center hole of the throwbar from underneath. This way there is enough pressure to hold the points against the stock rail, and the added bonus of hiding the switch machine. When all is properly aligned, I make a cover out of the piece of foam, set it in place, and, voila! all the wiring is under the layout, the machine itself is easily accessible, and scenery hides the “hatch”. There are a number of websites that offer a tutorial, just Google “Atlas twin coil”. Good luck Gerry S.[:D]
