We’re simple folk who like to uncouple anywhere.
Rob,
Even inside a industrial building, that will hold three cars? [:)]
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Sure, you just pick the thing up, right? [swg] I have several such industries, and operate on other layouts with them. We uncouple before shoving the cars to their spots. No big deal.
Don’t mean to derail the OPs thread… On topic - uh Rich, doing the above works great with Athearn RTR cars.
Rob,
Somehow, I knew you were going to say that. [(-D]
Don’t worry about Richie, he got his ting figured out.
I’ll bet though he replys, to this. [:-^]
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Rob, not to worry, Frank derails all threads. [8o|]
Rich
Rob,
I told you! [(-D]
Rich is my personal Moderator. [:)]
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Frank is the one reason why I might consider volunteering to be a moderator.
Rich
You can do the same with a magnet.
But,as long as you’re all smiles when you operate that’s what really matters…
Better thee then me because I can be a hard case just like the Captain in “Cool Hand Luke”.[(-D]
Rich, here is some technical reading on the subject:
http://webspace.webring.com/people/ib/budb3/arts/tech/cupcls.html
As others noted, some freight cars had cushion underframes that stuck out, others did not.
But in general, short shank Kadee couplers can correct, and improve the appearance of many of the ones that are too far out.
Close coupling, passenger or freight, is a small detail that inproves the appearance of our models.
Sheldon
Sheldon, thanks for that link. That is an excellent article on the subject. Those three box car photos clearly illustrate my issue with separation.
Rich
Rich, you are most welcome. The site where that page is has a lot of technical info that will change how you tink about model trains. I was into that sot of thing decades ago, but this guy put it all on the web.
Sheldon
Sheldon,There’s a technique you use while connecting air hoses or opening the air line vales and for good reason.
There is less space for a man to stand between cars so,you never put yourself in a position where you can’t clear the “dead zone” quickly if there is a sudden run in of slack from either direction-a mis lined yard switch can send a kicked car into your cut or train.It happen to me twice.
Even with the three step there is always the risk of sudden run in of slack if your working in a yard.
If memory serves(all bets are off) there is 30" between cars.
Yes, traditional non cushioned underframe cars are typically 30" apart.
Or .344" in HO scale, or slighly less than 3/8".
Sheldon
When I started on the railroad back in the early 60’s, I worked on the rip track and we did a lot of running board repairs. (I first saw the term “roofwalk” in a model magazine.) By that time, brakemen walking along the top of a freight train was pretty much a thing of the past and running boards were discontinued shortly afterward. Perhaps, in mountain regions a man still had to walk the top of the train to set retainers but not where i worked. Car inspectors at that time still did walk the tops to inspect the running boards but that was when the cars were sitting still. I never got on top of a car until I was braking later on and then it was just to pass signals. I never had to go from car to car.
My point is that my models without extended underframes or draft gears measure a scale 28 to 39 inches between the end of the running boards. Quite a gap for a man with normal legs. Perhaps, some models have too short running boards even if the car end spacing is close to prototypical.
Granted, they would look better if they were closer together.
Charlie
When I was working on the PRR we still rode the running board in order to relay hand signals to the engineer…
This was phased out in favor of radios.I think I got in on the last of PRR’s roof riders because we started using radios in late '66 or early '67…
In the old days, the typical house car, coupled at about 30" apart, hada running board that extended 6" or so pasthe car end - making the running board gaps only 18".
Sheldon