While surfing around the net I ran across “lever nuts.” These things look like they would be pretty handy for wiring, especially for DCC bus to feeder connections. From what I can tell they seem to be possibly a little easier to use than suitcase connectors, have a larger range of wire sizes each can accept and are reusable. I’ve seen them listed on ebay for about 50 cents a pop which seems very reasonable. Anyone have any experieces to share bout them? Here’s a link to their manufacturer.
Interesting product. I see they are UL listed as well as some of the other approval agencies. The price is not too bad for small projects either. I don’t think I would want to do a large project at that price. I like the fact that there are test ports and they can be disconnected when needed.
for small projects they probably would be ok but i can still solder a wire joint for about 2 cents. of course some people don’t like to solder. they might be just the ticket for modular layouts but so are multi-plug connectors.
grizlump
$0.50 a pop for something I can do for free by conventional methods, I think not.
Sheldon
They might be useful in an area that you were planning to add to or rewire in the future, since they’re easily reusable, and would accomodate extra later connections or reconfiguring the wiring.
I make my own terminal blocks from a chunk of plywood or heavyweight styrene. For the price of three or four of these gizmos I can buy enough hardware to assemble a fifty-post terminal block, which is almost enough to handle all the wire-connecting requirements of a good size town. Then, if I wish to add to an existing circuit, all I have to do is slack off the nut, stick another washer on top of the new wire and re-torque. Not only inexpensive, but a lot neater than flying joints - and worlds easier to troubleshoot.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I can solder track connections on the entire extension of my layout before I even think about spending 50 cents. There are only about 300 connections. Rail joiners, feeder wires, buss wires, etc.
I agree with soldering all wire joints… I have worked on equipment that was put toether using mechanical means and many moons later problems occur. There is no way to be sure there will not be some oxcide build up between 2 peices of metal just rubbing together… Some folks say to attach wire feeders to every length of track becaquse of the rail joiners, same thing with any type of mechanical connector
An interesting product, but for your suggested use of connecting power feeds to the main bus, you would need two of these devices and they would need to be the three wire type (buss wire in, feeder wire in, buss wire out to next connection point).
I generally prefer to solder my connections, but that looks like an interesting product. The cool thing is that it works across the size wires I use, and can mix strnaded and solid. I use stranded #12 as bus wire, and #20 solid as feeders. There are no suitcase connectors that join those two sizes directly, which is one of the reason I have no use for them. The only negative is no in-line tap, the bus would ahve to be cut at every feeder and the 3 position ones used. Or 5 position and bring 3 nearby feeders to one point.
–Randy
Thats the first time I’ve ever seen them. I’m planning something not train related in my garage that those things would be perfect for. Thanks for the link…
I don’t know how someone can form an honest opinion on an items quality from looking at a picture on a website, but unlike those fellows, I actually have personal and professional experience with WAGO lever nuts.
They are commercial grade quality. I work for a company that manufactures products for the food industry, we have hundreds of thousands of units all over the world (115, 230, 480V) that use this product, and these usually operate 24/7, in a very rough environment. (Heat, humidity, chemicals, etc) We must comply with not only U.L, but many other requirements (CE for example) around the world. I have yet to see a failure of one of our products cross my desk blamed on a WAGO. Would they work reliably on a model railroad? Absolutely, Overkill? Most definitely, as a matter of fact we all would be long before you had a failure with one of these.
There are many advantages to them besides durability, mainly you can use a voltmeter to troubleshoot without having to “undo” the connection, and if you have to undo it, you simply raise the lever and slide the wire out. Don’t compare this to a suitcase connector, there is no comparison. These are made for commercial industries, and not home hobbyists, hence the .50 per unit cost, which I cannot argue against soldering, which by the way, can fail very easily if the person soldering is inexperienced. I use them on my MRR, (call it a fringe benefit from my employer), I also have used them in home wiring, (Yard lights, septic pump, inside lighting etc) they simply replace those wire nuts that I dislike. I always have a box of them handy. If you wish to use them, I guarantee you will not be disappointed, matter of fact, I predic
Gearedsteam,
Thanks for the input. Given the info on the lever nut website I had a gut feeling that these things would be pretty reliable, but wanted to know if anyone had actually used them. I agree that traditional wire nuts can be (at least for me) quite the pain - played with enough of those things when I rewired several circuits in my Mom’s house. Thanks!
Randy,
Your observation was spot on with mine. Suitcase connectors are more limited in size of wire, especially when using something like 12AWG and 22AWG. Joe Fugate has a solution on his video where he shows how can get the 12AWG wire onto the smaller suitcase. While I do prefer soldering wires, I find it frustrating at times to strip the insulation in the middle of a wire (especially stranded) and hence my interest in either suitcase connectors or something else. While I think they are cost prohibitive (for me) to use lots of these, there may be some situations where they might be beneficial, and who knows, there are some real deals at times to be had on ebay.
a bunch of you guys already know this but for the benefit of those who do not, here goes.
most times when you encounter a connector, crimp type, wire nut, or whatever that is not gripping the wire tightly enough to suit you, try putting a “dummy” or short length of extra wire in with the others. it will take up the slack and get you a nice tight connection.
grizlump
Just need to make sure that the exposed end of the “dummy” wire won’t short out against anything else (thinking inside an electrical box here).
Hi,
just check with the local hydro inspector if you are going to do any wiring. They are UL listed but are they also recognized by CSA? When machines are build in other countries and shipped to Canada there is always a special inspection to ensure that the equipment confirms to our standards.
Just a cautionary note.
Frank