We use a little plastic device here at work called a “wire tap-in”
They are really super easy to use
Insert bus wire-no stripping necessary
Insert wire to device (model, or rail)-No splicing necessary
Push closed.
Boom, instant wire splice. The great thing about this is you don’t have to solder, or desolder to remove the connection. Just open the plastic clip and you are good to go. It’s a great time saver for hooking up new models, or removing old models for maintenance.
For those of you who don’t know what a wire-tap in looks like::
And now, the debate can commence. Those who love them and say they’ve never had a problem, etc. on the left, those who think they’re unreliable, not available in the right AWG to AWG combo, etc. on the right…
Those who think everyone should use whatever they like, grab a beer and let’s watch 'em go at it.
Gosh darn it!. I just did a google search on “suitcase connectors” and a whole slew of webpages showed up related to MRR. Man and I thought I was being clever!
Maybe one of these days I’l think of something you guys haven’t!
Ok, I’ll bite. I won’t use them at work. They are widely considered unreliable for professional automotive applications. (Vibration factors, environmental exposure, etc.)
For my RR, I don’t know yet. Minimal vibrations, no environmental exposure, so there shouldn’t be problems.
Are you talking about those same crimp connectors that you would hook up auto trailor lights with?? If so, I never found those to be very relialable. (maybe I’m thinking of somthing different) You can’t go wrong with solder…[2c]
NOPE! Looked at your link. Same thing! Those things STINK! DON’T use them! You’ll always be tweeking them with a pair of pliers. (speaking from experiance)
The only reliable way I have ever found to make electrical connections without soldering is to use terminal strips - the threaded-post with a nut on top type.
Before anyone screams, “Too expensive!” note that I make my own from a strip of Masonite, standard #10 machine screws, nuts and washers. Total cost for a 25 terminal strip is about $1.50. (Plus about an hour of time)
DG - wait until you google insulation displacement connectors.
I use them on my layout though I won’t use them on cars, however I don’t plan on taking my layout up and down bumpy roads, subjecting it to salty road spray, or using it to stop my trailer. Oh yeah I also haven’t quite figured out how to use them to attach the wire onto the rail - still use solder there I,m afraid [:o)][:D] J.R.
The IDC connectors will work for a while but in an environment where moisture and humidity is high (basements – garages) they begin to cause problems.
We used them on our club Lionel display (located in an old basement) and had the trackwork up for almost 10 years. We had use #12 stranded buss wires and #12 drop wires. The track we used was Gargraves and most of the #12 drop wires were soldered to the rails. The IDC connectors were used to connect the drops to the buss wires. We had the proper Scotckloc connector for #12 wire and they worked well for 5 years.
We then began to notice that the trains would slow down on certain sections of track and were not sure why. An inspection of the wiring showed nothing wrong and in the process of checking the wiring the problems seemed to go away. While this was OK it did not really explain why the problems even showed up.
Then a different section of track began giving problems. We had the layout set up blocks using industrial toggle switches and it was designed to be able to have 2 different transformers available to run any given section of track. So the transformers were not the problem as either one would not make the track run any better. It got so bad at the last we had to have the bad sections set on the other transformer set to a higher voltage just to keep the trains moving at the same speed section to section.
Then on the forums someone stated that the potential problems existed where the metal blades came in contact with the wire and very minute amounts of corrosion would form on the IDCs. This then explained why when we did our wiring inspections we seemed to correct the power loss but had not actually done anything except moving the wires around. By moving the wires we must have made good contact again by somehow breaking through the corrosion. I really could not see any of this in any of the connectors but then it probably was that very small amount.