Draw bars

Is there a source for them? if. It what is the best material to make them from. Length obvioucly varies. Height and width measurement s. Probably don’t. I need two bars. For both the slug sets I am working on. One set is both atlas, the other is an atlas with bli. Just in case that is needed for the coupler pocket sizing. The length I can adjust as need be if I make them.

shane

easiest way is to make them from black styrene

Even better, cut up an old credit card and paint it black. It has just the right amount of stiffness. Somebody recommended that to me years ago and it works like a charm for getting my F-units to the desired spacing.

I think I’ll try this with my wife’s current credit cards.

Mark B.

on regular engines rather then slugs how do you dawbar say two gp30s as an example. do you do them elephant style with cabs in the same direction or with cabs at the ends? my preference is both cabs same direction.

Shane: I have had excellent results with these from State Tool & Die, and available from Walthers for a very reasonable price.

These get cut into one of three lengths to meet your needs.

The holes need to be enlarged slightly, and they will fit into Kadee #242 coupler boxes, or an OEM box that fits a Kadee coupler.

-Kevin

Sounds like a win/win.

That’s an interesting option and at that price, it’s hard to go wrong. I might have to give it a try.

I’ve made drawbars by gluing two Kadee couplers together and just install both ends in the original coupler boxes. Use epoxy from the bottom so it fills the gap where the knuckles join. This way, when you look between the engines, it still looks like they are “coupled” together.

Mark.

The only time I need drawbars is for coupling a tender to a steam locomotive, and it’s very easy to make them, using either black sheet styrene, or brass or aluminum sheet material.

Wayne

Hello All,

Great suggestion!!!

Here’s a photo of the close coupling of a prototypical F7 A-B set at the Colorado Railroad Museum…

For close coupling, Kadee #23 (#5 type spring) or #143 (whisker type spring) would work, albeit more expensive than the drawbars from Walthers.

If using Kadee couplers I would cut off the trip pins.

Hope this helps.

That is a good idea. I have a bunch of those mchenry version I could use. That and the credit card idea.

shane