Just received the new one today, DCC From Start to Finish. I have NO plans to go the DCC route on layout soon to be started; is it worth the $$ to buy it? I do plan to use #12 wire to bus and will break up into blocks. Turnouts fastrack and mostly handlaid c70. Sooooo, buy or return? Gary[D)]
I don’t have this one yet, so it is hard to comment. If you REALLY don’t EVER intend to go to DCC (a decision which I might question, but that wasn’t what you asked) then why keep it? On the other hand, if you are at all on the fence a viewing might give you more info to go on.
The argument I often hear for not going DCC is that the layout is small and you don’t have a need to be running lots of trains at once.
But what that overlooks is how DCC gives you the ability to independently tune loco performance in all kinds of cool ways, not to mention the ever-growing sound loco options.
If you find locos to be a big thing for you in the hobby, and having locos perform really well is important to you, then you need to consider DCC. Nothing else in the hobby today gives you the loco tuning precision of DCC. You can set starting voltage, top speed voltage, adjust forward and reverse voltage independently, add in a starting voltage kick … the list goes on and on as to what you can do to tune your loco’s performance.
Would the cost of a single really nice plastic steamer be worth it to you if you could get this kind of highly tunable control of each loco? What’s a nice plastic HO steamer cost these days? $200? $300?
The NCE and Digitrax starter DCC systems cost about $150, and very nice fleet decoders are less than $20 each.
A really nice DC power pack with momentum and such features will cost you $50-$60. If you get two such packs so you can run two trains at once, now you’re up to about $100-$120. Then there’s cab control wiring, toggles, etc. But with all this you still can’t tune each loco’s behavior independently like you can with DCC.
True, DC is conceptually simpler than DCC. But then so is a horse conceptually simpler that today’s automobiles – but that doesn’t seem to stop anybody. [swg]
I’ve got a small layout (5x12 feet) and DCC. I completely agree with Joe about the great value of DCC on small layout.
But, you should consider your own DCC plans. If you are at the beginning stage of a layout, and you don’t plan to buy DCC for a year or two, if at all, then don’t spend money for a how-to package on DCC. Why not? Well, because DCC is an evolving product. I bought my system a bit over 2 years ago, and I also bought “DCC Made Easy” at the same time. Since then, we’ve seen an explosion in new decoders and DCC accessories, so the book, while still valuable and full of good info, is already a bit out of date.
If you can, though, visit an LHS or a train show where they’re running sound engines. (Warning: Have your men lash you to the mast, or, like Odysseus, you’ll find yourself drawn to the siren’s call. Don’t feel bad. Walking out of the store with a sound-equipped 0-6-0 is a lot better than getting stomped by a Cyclops.)
I wanted sooooooo badly to start this discussion, but I bit my tounge…
Thanks, guys!
[:D]
I guess I’ll preview the DVD and then decide.[sigh] My situation is this: I have about a dozen loco’s, all brass, all 1970’s, from 2-6-2 Long Bell to 2-6-6-0 D&SL, eclectic, not road specific. The Long Bell is remotored with micromotor/gearbox per a MR article from about 1978, all others pretty much original open frame. Most materials for block control are on hand from previous layouts, including several home-built transistorized throttles that work well (or did when last used) per Westcott article in a 1972 MR.
Retirement is coming soon, pending sale of old house[banghead], and I don’t want to get in deep until our disposable income has been determined/estimated. My wife is disabled and has MANY health issues.[:(]
Initial work has been started on yard/engine facilities, with 85’ scratchbuilt TT, 6 stall Heljan RH. Doors will/should/had better operate remotely.[:-^] Gary