My next project is to open up the inside area in my main layout area. I’m done crawling under to access the inside access hole. This will mean my figure 8 loop is going away.
I whipped up a quick plan, it only shows the area I’m opening up.
I went to Home Depot today to pick up some things for the drop down bridge.
This is what I have planned. The bridge will be 23" x 10". The two track mainline will be on this bridge, and I will also have a #6 crossover on the access bridge.
I got a T hanger bracket. I will attach a 2x4 to the underside, and it will slide into the T hanger for alignment.
2 hinges for added stability.
And for the latch system, I got a heavy duty barrel bolt.
Since I will have switches mounted on the bridge, with Peco switch motors. I’ll have to run all the wires and feeders to the bridge side that swings down. When its in the down position, all the wires will be hidden.
I’m not planning on a system to avoid dives onto the floor. I do have carpeting, but I will just rely on myself not to operate trains while the bridge is down.
I would suggest using 3 1/2 or 4 inch butt hinges; the kind that go on big heavy doors. The ones you have will flex and cause problems with alignment. My drop down is 12" wide and I’ve got 3 1/2" loose butt hinges. On the other end I used a door latch like used to be used as a second lock; they also had one that had a straight tongue that was used as a deadbolt. I put the latch on the bridge and the receiver on the layout side. After shimming it’s worked for 2 years now.
The hinges I got have rubber inserts in them, there is very little play with them. The T Hanger bracket with the 2x4 will be used for alignment. I don’t think it will move. I will see how it works, and if I have to change out the hinges, no big deal.
Have you made progress? Please post some more pictures as you move ahead.
GandyDancer,
Thanks for posting your link. I downloaded your PDF.
Guys, I’m in a similar situation in that my layout room needs a lift bridge and I’m looking for something that will be sturdy, reliable, and not be a source of electrical contact problems.
As mentioned above, you have not left yourself a very wide opening. The main fault I find with a drop down gate is that when you pass through, you are likely to catch something on the track or scenery on the bridge. This would be made even more likely with such a narrow bridge.
In the planning for my next layout I have a tip up, slightly wider than the door. I will also make sure that the track both sides of the gate are such that the trains can’t take a dive. Had a supervisor once that said “Never trust anyone, even yourself.” I have found this very good advise in many aspects of life, not just the one he was referring to.
20" is the minimum gap recommended by interior designers. As long as you have that much clearance with the bridge open, you should be ok. Key word, though, is clearance, especially to any scenery on the bridge itself. If your bridge is only 23"long, you may have trouble meeting the standard.
Many of us go through temporary slowdowns and then cruise right back in when we’re ready. I’m just getting back to metalizing passenger cars after a 2 month hiatus.
If you get a chance though, please take some photos of your current setup. In additon to myself, my wife’s cousin is slowly building a lift-up section for his doorway on his layout and is pondering which method to use. Like me, he finds it helpful to use photographs as reference sources.
