Cork roadbed (Midwest) is 3/16ths of an inch in height and while that doesn’t sound like much I’m finding it’s kinda hard to make a smooth transition from waaay up there down to level ground for a siding. It looks like it’s going to be a constant source of unwanted uncoupling and possible derailments if it isn’t done with care. I know some use N scale roadbed on their HO scale layouts for sidings, so that is an option.
1- All this has me thinking about just how far linearly (is that a word?) you should allow for this drop from the mainline to flat ground? Probably the further the better but there are limits, usually dictated by how much space we have for the siding.
2- What is a good way to do the ‘incline’? I’m assuming now that the drop shouldn’t even begin until well past the diverging ‘arm’ of the turnout ends. Do you use caulk or shims or what?
Jarrell
A friend uses HO cork roadbed, but uses a rasp tool (commonly used to shape foam layout contours) to bevel the roadbed down to the layout base. He extends the transition over a span of 4-5 inches and does so using the ‘eyeball’ method…
Andy
Or, use a surform file to file down whatever cork you have until you can get to the level you want. Also, don’t overlook door jamb shims. Once you have it installed, glued in place, you can use a wood file or sander to round off the steep onset caused by its thicker edge, and a few pieces of cardstock can be used toward the lower edge to support the flextrack’s easement to the siding level as it leaves the shim.
While it’s a bit messy, I’ve used a belt sander to make those gradual inclines. Works really well to drop those station freight tracks down a scale foot and a half where you still want a bit of raised roadbed.
I have used both a ‘sureform’ tool and my B&D ‘Mouse’ sander. I use 1/4" Homabed for my mainlines, and 3/16" cork for the sidings/spurs. I have to drop about 1/16" and allow at least 8"-9" of the higher material to enter the siding, before I switch over to the lower material. I sand down the difference with the sureform. Since you are going a full 3/16", I would allow about 24" for the transistion down to the final elevation. I have no problem with derailments or false uncouplings. It’s sort of neat to watch a train ‘drop’ down into the siding…
Jim
One method I have tried are wooden wedges. You can usually find these at the Home Depot. They come in good lengths, usually about 6 inches.
Thank you all for the suggestions. I have a pack of the shims from Home Depot so I’ll give them a try. If I can’t get that to work I’ll try sanding or the Surform.
Maybe I’ll get lucky and one of’em will work… 
Jarrell
My mainline is 1/4" cork, and my sidings are 1/8".
I layer 1/4" wide masking tape to build up a ramp, starting immediately after the end of the switch. My ramps are about 16 1/2 inches long, with 24 layers of tape at the thick end. Ends are staggered 3/8 inch in the middle of the ramp, with more distance between the staggered ends at the each end of the ramp, to provide a smooth transition from flat to ramp. Here’s a couple of shots of one installed ramp before the track was installed (this one went under another switch) - if you look close you can see the staggered ends of the masking tape:
My heavy Mikes can charge up and down these ramps at road speed without a hiccup. They also have no trouble at all with the switch on the ramp.
I also used wood shims. You have to let the track form a gradual transition at each end. I did this by fastening the track only at the center of the shim and allowing the ends to float. I filled the gaps under the crossties at the ends of the shim with ballast.
I’ve found that there are more droppings on the sidings because the trees are typically closer to the track. ON the mainline, birds just can’t get close enough.
Yep! Standard cedar shims. Most are about a 2% grade and can be cut and shaped easily. I have not had any problems with uncoupling on the transitions with them. One by itself is a little narrow , so I use two side by side and trim them down with a box cutter to size.
If you really want ghastly detail you will find that in some areas (mostly urban and industrial) the birdies love to roost in the girders under bridges and leave parallel stripes of guano on the pavement underneath… and, sometimes, stripes down the retaining walls.
Some people just never stick to the original topic do they[:D]
An easy (if somewhat more expensive method) is to use the Woodland Scenics foam inclines. These are 2% grade and if you buy a starter incline set you get about 8 ramps for about $8. Just take the ramp and lay it next to the cork and where the two intersect in height you can cut off the ramp. Glue it down and cover with either foam putty or the plaster gauze strips that WS makes. Then do a quick sand to smooth it out. It’s a lot easier than trying to cut an incline into the cork and because the incline is flexible you can easily bend it around a curve in case your siding angles away from the mainline.