What’s the difference between peco turnouts that are listed as small, medium, and large as opposed to the ones listed by turnout number such as 5, 6, and the to be released 8?
Also anyone know a cheap place to buy code 83 insulfrogs online? The cheapest I’ve seen so far are an Ebay store for $19.
Thanks,
Aaron
Try www.modelrailwaypo.com for Peco turnouts. They advertise in RMC. The web site is primitive, and it’s best to call in your order. But, that keeps the price down, and you will talk to a real person who can tell you what’s in stock.
The original HO line of Peco turnouts were built as small/med/large radius. The new code 83 line appears to be built to North American outline and use the standard #'s.
Jim
I believe, Small Radius = #4, Med = #6 and Large = #8 It is because The Traditional Peco Turnouts, are built based on British Prototypes… however, the Code 83 line Is based on US prototypes. hence the difference.
-James-
The early Peco(non northamerican prototype) turnouts have a CONSTANT RADIUS…hence the Small (Radius), Medium (Radius) and large (Radius). It is easier to equalize them to a radius number (as in 20") than a degree number like Northamerican prototypes like #6 or #8 (which indicates the number of units it takes to diverge ONE unit).
David
They are nice turnouts, too, but be advised that you will likely have to coat the frog rails, beyond the insulating plastic tip, because the wide HO metal wheel, if you use them, will contact both rails and cause a short. Use clear polyurethane or nail poli***o paint the next 6 mm past the point where the two rails nearly meet. In other words, extend the insulation down the rails a bit. At some point, the wheel won’t be able to bridge the two rails, so that is where you stop the painting.
Y’know, I do have that problem occasionally with my Peco 3-was turnouts. Do you paint from the frog out away from the points, or in towards the points? Thanks, you may have solved a problem I’ve that’s been bothering me for months.
The frog points meet in a sharp V-shape, but have a black plastic point, or tip, right? That is the insulated join, and I think, not positive, that there should be a fine plastic shim in between them for a bit as they diverge. But, if you have a free truck and metal axle set to run over a handy (non-situated) Peco streamline, take a look for yourself when that wheel runs past the plastic and onto its metal rail. I’m sure you will see the possibility that the wheels could touch both rails at the same time, and your experience would suggest that they do, even if for a fraction of a second.
So, from the point where the plastic meets the merging/diverging rail ends, paint toward the through route and diverging route rail far ends for about 6-10 mm, just so that the metal wheels no longer bridge the two. You will have to renew this coating from time-to-time.
Exactly what I have done, and it works[:0]
Ken.
I read somewhere that Peco (and Tillig’s) sm./ med./ large/, turnouts had curved frogs to conform to curved radii. The ‘large’ being approximately 36" radius or 70" circle - actually in milmeters. This appears to be a European thing.
US turnouts use ‘straight’ frogs - like our railroad’s - (exception Atlas 'Snap Switches make a 36" circle). The (US) NMRA set model standards, which are voluntary and intended to help maufacturers use common measurements - if followed…
Since the NMRA specs are in % of overall deviation they do not scribe a circle. (Even the curveture of the point rails varies from brand to brand) - hence not all brands]are created equal . I like to say “if any switch creates a problem, try another one”.
SINCE the long and short of it is what works for you, I can only suggest that the geometry of a ‘straight wheel’ following a curved rail favors the ‘straight’ frog, and turnouts laid to 100% NMRA specifications such as BK are derailment free.
'What’s on YOUR layout?
Actually, in code 100 and 75, small = 24" radius, medium = 36" and
large = 60". This is from Peco data.
The shorting problem does not exist with electrofrog versions. I
have 35 code 75 installed, half medium and half large radius, and
have no shorting with any of many different types of engines and
rolling stock. I believe electrofrog, though more trouble to wire,
are the better choice.
Hal