Quick question regarding Dullcote/Krylon that I haven’t been able to find the answer to while searching: HOW do you use Dullcote when spraying cars/engines to seal weathering powders?
I ask because the directions on my bottle of Krylon say to spray from side-to-side. I have to go pretty slow, so that the surface looks “soaked” or else the finish becomes spotty. Do you guys spray from side-to-side, or do you just do shots of it straight on?
Greg,
I give the object a very light spray (a quick side-to-side) from about a foot or more. When that has dried (about an hour or more), I then spray the second time, a little closer, again side-to-side, and attempt to get more coverage. In most cases, the second spray gets things done, but I have done a third light coat at times. Do not use Dullcote in a humid environment. That usually causes the spotting. The Dullcote grabs the water in the air as it flies towards the object and the water causes the “silvering” and spotting to take place. Of course, as you are probably aware, the chalk weathering will become more transparent when covered by dullcote so you might have to do a second chalk weathering coat. In most cases, unless you are going to handle the object a lot, I wouldn’t give an overspray of dullcote.
Jim
The problem might lie with your choice of flat finish. I tried the Krylon ‘‘Matte Finish’’ in a spray can and got terrible results. It didn’t react well with hobby paints and made a white, blotchy finish.
I only use Testors Gloscote and Dullcote…and I spray them on with a Paasche airbrush.
Testors makes Gloscote\Dullcote in small hobby sized spray cans and you might want to try them, in the past I’ve used them and although they tend to unload a huge amount of laquer all at once, if you hold the can at least 10 inches from your project you won’t get a sudden, sagging line of laquer glopped onto your models.
I agree with both posts above. The Testors works best if you can afford it. The Krylon doesn’t work well in high humidity or cold temperatures. Light coats from about a foot away work best. You may need to reapply more powder after your first coat.
Didn’t you buy the AIM weathering powders?? I don’t think you need to seal those. Aren’t they supposed to be self adhesive?(like the Bragdon stuff)
I’ve never had a problem with the Krylon. I make it a point that each coat has time to dry hard before the next is applied. Twenty-four hours with low humidity is my minimum, otherwise three to four days before applying a disparate coat. Actually, the one-week rule is best unless one is in a hurry and willing to take a risk with any paint. Of course, we don’t usually have high humidity in central California except immediately on the coast (which is why I’ll never live east of Denver on the continental U.S. and I can’t stand the weather in the Tropics unless there is a minimum of a constant 10-knot wind).
Mark
I’ve tried several methods, and agree with the Testors. It is best through an airbrush, but I’ve got nice results with two light coats from the aerosol cans.
Weather is a factor - not too damp, not too cold…
I got the Sierra Scale Models powders. Yes, they are self-adhesive, but that doesn’t mean they seal themselves. They just stick to the model way better than regular chalk. You’ll still get finger-prints showing when you touch them, and you can wipe them off by touch. They do go ON a lot easier though.