I am wanting to do a project with a Cary E-7 shell. Now before you all go why that piece of junk, just hear me out.
First off, looking at all the the stuff on the Bowser website aside from the shell I think I have everything I need But I want to double check with all you first.
The Bowser web site says that the Cary E-units mout on an Athearn SD40T-2 chassis. Back when RPP was a going concern their SD60s they to mounted on an SD40T-2 chassis
My question then is can I use a Proto-2000 SD60 chassis and mount my Cary E-7 shell on it since that is what I have???
The second question I have is that obviously SD60 sideframes are not the right side frames. However I sort of remember some where that SD-9 sideframes are. I have several SD-9 side frames. from Athearn. I am wondering if they would mount in a P-2K SD60 Truck.
And if SD-9 side frames are not the right sideframes what do I use?
The double leaf spring side frames used on EMD E-units are a unique group, as they were used for E units only. There were some minor variations and improvements over the years, including the change over to roller bearings. One “cool” facet about E unit trucks is that they rode very well. Locomotive engineers were quoted as stating that E units “Rode like Cadillacs!”[8D][;)]
The truck side frames from an old Model Power E7/ E8 or a Rivorossi E8 may be good options. However, a simpler solution would be to order Proto 2000 E unit side frames. Walthers has more LL parts in stock now and P2K side frames are relatively inexpensive.
If your hobby shop doesn’t have them, don’t e-mail Walthers…CALL THEM! They actually answer and have decent customer service. Walthers has helped me on two occasions with no problems.
Are you sure you don’t want to start with a P2K undec E-7. They run great and pull like crazy.
Sounds like a considerable amount of work that won’t come anywhere close to the P2K route. The Athearn will or should be repowered and the sintered wheels replaced, lighting reworked and sideframes replaced. I just picked up an undec E-7 to paint in Pere Marquete, They can be found for as little as $30-40.
Bob K.
You are absolutely right about the qualities of a Proto 2000 E-Unit. But It lacks one fundamental thing that I require on all my model railroad endeavors. It lacks Challange. And lack of challenge is precicely why I have such a passionate disfavor for RTR. And while I am a grade advocate of shake the box kits, I find that my skills are now more worthy of something fundamentally more difficult. Like a Cary E-7
Anybody on this forum, Beginner and old timer alike can get a Proto 2000 Anything running and looking good. But it takes a true craftsman to do what I am going to attempt. And I want to know if indeed I am a true craftsman.
Just spend a lot of time filling in the imperfections and sanding them out before you paint. Hobbytown might make a mechanism for that engine. I think it is called Bear locomotive now. They are noisy by today’s standards but with that shell and a Hobbytown mechanism you’ll have the P2K engines whimpering in the corner for help.
I have looked at the Hobbytown Mechanism and it is still under consideration. I however am not in favor of it as it only powers one truck, and to power both trucks one has to run a drive line from one truck to the other. And I would prefer an Athearn Style Mechansim. If Athearn is indeed making Blue box Kits once again. I probably will just pick up an SD40T-2 and Use that for my chassis.
They never stopped, James. According to their site, they still produce the following locomotives as good 'ole BB kits.
F7 S12 SW1000 SW1500 SW7 F45 U28C U30C GP7 GP38-2 GP40-2 GP50 GP60 SD40-2 SD45 C44-9W AC4400
Thank you. However an E-Unit is longer than an SD40-2 and I need the SD40T-2s Longer Frame length. You are right it should be the same chassis as on the SD45T-2s. As for SD40-2s I am Looking into converting some of mine into SDP40s
The Hobbytown Power unit for the E-7 will power two trucks through a universal that goes under the frame from the rear to the front truck, if you had a E-7B, you could purchase a multidrive unit and power the B unit from the A unit thru another universal.
I have the E-6 A&B with the multidrive option. With those metal bodies and frames you can pull plaster off the walls not to mention every car on the layout.
You are absolutely right about the qualities of a Proto 2000 E-Unit. But It lacks one fundamental thing that I require on all my model railroad endeavors. It lacks Challange. And lack of challenge is precicely why I have such a passionate disfavor for RTR. And while I am a grade advocate of shake the box kits, I find that my skills are now more worthy of something fundamentally more difficult. Like a Cary E-7
James
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That’s my way of looking at it too. You might want to check out the old Model Power E-units. They have decent looking trucks, all 12 wheels are powered and collect current, and the frame is diecast zinc. Many people got rid of theirs because of a “clicking” noise in the drive train. However, this problem is easily cured by using plastic shims in the male/female joint in the drive shafts. Also, many modellers disdain the cheap can motor, which can be easily replaced with one of better quality. However, I have an FPA-4/FPB-4 set, made from the Model Power FA/FB that uses the same stock motors: These are ballasted to a combined weight of over 49 ounces and the motors don’t draw excessive current and are still capable of slipping their wheels when train weight exceeds their capacity.
This is my Model Power E-9A, stock except for a few added details.
This is an E-7B phase II, built from two Model Power E-7As. Most of the body side panels have been replaced to allow for see-through screening set behind thin cross-section “sheet metal”. Filters and carbody framing represented as on the prototype.
This is the FPA/FPB-4 set mentioned. Several body pane
I currently have 2 Model Power E7s that I originally was going to hop up. However, Yes I’m guilty…the P2K E units have spoiled me and those 2 Model Power Es are sitting aside collecting dust. I’m debating whether I should sell them, save the shells and scrap the underframes, or fix them up.
I originally intended to repower and detail them, but it would wind up costing more than purchasing P2K E units, which for the past year have been averaging $40 to $50 on EBay. I even purchased one for $39 back in 2004.
I do agree that the “challenge” is exhilarating. Unfortunately, my time is stretched so thin that I have to take advantages of good opportunities when they knock.
Dang. I thought painting an E unit in the silver/blue/yellow non-bow wave C&O scheme was enuf of a challenge. And installing those little itty bitty lifting eyes without screwing up. So much so that I sold the C&O E-7 and bought two decorated P2K E-8’s, and now I need to sell an undec E-7 A & B. I also know I do not have enough patience anymore to put forth the effort to get an undecorated looking as good as the decorated E-8’s, especiallly for a diesel.
Dang. I thought painting an E unit in the silver/blue/yellow non-bow wave C&O scheme was enuf of a challenge. And installing those little itty bitty lifting eyes without screwing up. So much so that I sold the C&O E-7 and bought two decorated P2K E-8’s, and now I need to sell an undec E-7 A & B. I also know I do not have enough patience anymore to put forth the effort to get an undecorated looking as good as the decorated E-8’s, especiallly for a diesel.
