Hi all
Got these at a swap and thought that I would take’m apart, clean, debur and generally check stuff out but haven’t been able to figure out how to do that. No markings on the bottom.
Anybody recognize these?
Thanks!
Model Power or possibly Con-Cor, not as much detail as a Proto obviously but rock solid and will pull the track up behind them. Try swiveling the trucks to see if there are any screws under them, those would be the mounting screws.
If you want good, dependable E units that can pull anything…you’ve got 'em!!
Mark
WGAS
Model Power has a screw in the roof right behind the cab holding the shell on.
No screws that I can see. Took bottom off of one truck which fell out except for the coupler holding it to the body, but that is another issue.
From playing with these a little more, I think whomever had them before glued the body to the frame and that is the stopper. Have a really slim putty ( sorta ) knife and I am working with now.
Heavy things ( ABA setup ) with one of the ‘A’ units a dummy.
ctclibby
It’s been a long time but how about those two “outboard” screws on the fuel tank???
Mark
WGAS
Hi
Not screw holes, they are flat-bottomed… must be part of the casting process?
thanks
Geesh!
Flathead screw on the TOP of the unit. Complete missed it for a bit. Still have to remove the front coupler to get the shell off though.
These really are gonna need some TLC!
Thanks to all the replied!
That E7 is an Roco(Austria) manufactured for Model Power in the 70’s. At that time the Roco manufactured Atlas and Model Power locomotives were top shelf runners.
If I recall correctly, in addition to the screw in the roof, there’s a projection at the rear of the frame which fits into a slot in the body shell. Unless the pilot’s been modified (closed in more fully) the shell will come off without removing the coupler - lift the rear, then rotate slightly to clear the trip pin.
Mark is correct - these things are great pullers, especially with some extra weight. [swg]
I had a couple of those E7 A-units given to me by a friend and picked up a new, unpainted shell for an E8/9A. I used to two E7s to create a “B” unit, then mounted the E8 shell on the remaining mechanism.
Here’s the “A” unit:
…and the two former E7A units:
Wayne
Hmmmm…thought that screw in the roof looked familiar!
I have a pair of powered, undecorated units that have been sitting on my shelf for about a decade. Mechanically they’re in excellent shape. I’ve been undecided as to whether to sell them or hop-them-up as I have a strong preference for the P2K E-units, especially since a lot of the older run Es can still be found on E-bay new in the box and the paint on the shells is easily stripped with an alcohol soak.
These Model Power units are a little noisy, like Athearn Blue Box units. I think that if I can quiet the drive down, and the motors can pass the “stall current test” (for DCC), I would likely keep them. For body detailing, plenty of work is needed to get them on par with the P2K units, but as Doctor Wayne has shown, it can be fun and challenging.
The large Roco motor in these units is the same one used for the O-Scale models! They will pull very long trains with ease.
Antonio, while the motors are a bit “growly”, the main source of noise is chatter in the drive shaft couplings. You can replace them with better ones or simply shim the male/female interface with sheet styrene or shim brass.
Wayne
Doc,
Thank you. I’ll take a look at the drive train of both units. If higher quality shafts/couplings are available, I’d rather take that route. I’m assuming NWSL, right?