BLI E8/E9 vs. Proto 2000 E8/E9 Which is better?
I have some proto 2000 E/9’s. I can tell you that they are very quiet running, will put out tree stumps and the flashing mars lights are really nice. I haven’t seen a BLI one yet.
WELCOME TO THE FORUM
[#welcome] Welcome to the forum. I don’t have a P2K E8/9, but I do have a P2K PA1 and a P2K E6. These babies will almost pull YOU around the layout. They are exceptionally smooth-running, pull like elephants on steroids and are extremely quiet. The only sounds I hear from mine are the clickity-clak of the wheels hitting the rail joints. I can’t even hear the motor of the E6.
I wouldn’t say either is better. The Protos without sound have a bit more pulling power because they have a weight were the speakers would be for a sound unit. There is definitely some tiny dimesional differences especially in the nose. This can be seen when they are sitting side by side so one can tell they are different makes, but get them out alone on the track and I can’t tell the difference between the two.
For the sound units they both have QSI so there is no difference there. My ear can’t distingush any difference in the speakers either.
Some of the prototype modelers that I hang with have noticed that the bulldog nose contour on the BLI units are correct and that the nose curve on the P2K E units is “off”. My eyes aren’t that great so I can’t really tell.
Personally I’m not that picky and I’m very happy with my P2K E units. But yes, I plan on getting at least one sound equipped E8. I’ll take either BLI or P2K. The price is the factor I’m looking at.
Yes I agree i have several proto 2000 E-8/E-9’s and if i could sit on one it would pull me around with no problem,and very quetly
Carl…
Antonio
The nose contours on the BLI are great and the Proto are not so good as you have stated. Most modelers do not look for this type of detail from the comments I read in this and past threads.
Another problem with the P2K E8 model is the side grills. The P2K sside grills are not the correct height and do not match the MR drawings or any of the other models on the market. I have both the P2K and BLI versions along with several brass models of the E8 and E9’s. The P2K is about the best running and has great pulling power, but is not that accurate when you look close. The BLI E8’s are good for the Farr type grills, but the horizon versions are so so.
Price wise, I recently purchased two BLI E7’s with sound for about 100 each. I plan on using them for a sound installation in some of my brass models.
Here’s a bit of a different follow-up question. I recently purchased an older model(i.e. not DCC ready) E8 because it was available in my road name(Frisco). My question is: how easy will it be to convert to DCC? Suspect, (1) putting in a standard decoder won’t be too big of a deal and (2) as per above discussion, doesn’t seem like there’s enough room for a speaker if I want to do sound.
So, if I want to do sound, would I be better off buying a newer DCC-ready frame? And, to follow this up, would the newer P2K frame fit my older Frisco body? Any chance it would fit a BLI E8 chassis? Would doubt the last issue would be compatible, but thought I’d ask.
Jim
Easy. Since there is a lot of space in the body almost any decoder can be used. The thing to remember is to account for the 1.5V lightbulbs. Usually I rip out the diode matrix that comes from the factory, file it smooth and use it as the mounting platform for the decoder.
Unfortunately, I’ve never done a sound installation in this particular unit. The speaker is always the hardest part of a sound installation, but in an E-unit there should be tons of space. It will just require a bit of cutting. The first place I would consider is two downward firing speakers on the bottom of the fuel tank.
No, you want to buy a newer unit that has a sound ready frame with the speaker mounts already built in.
No idea without trying. I would think it shouldn’t be too hard to fit. The issue would be how it fastens on. Our club has a P2K frame PAB units with Athearn BB bodies on them. They fit fine. One can’t pick them up by the body because there is nothing holding them on. They just sits there. One of these day’s I’ll actually get inspired and mill out a place for the Athearn style body tabs.
PROTO 2000 E-8/9’s have a h**** s***t Mars light, using a single bulb w.alternating filaments, which I guess is OK if you aren’t striving for anything that looks real, or taking what one gets for free. Believe it or not, a Mars light that ‘pulses’ is so much more realistic, and can be had for about $30. There is a noticable difference, + Only the lead ‘A’ needs to be Lit.
Good point; however, I believe that would also be a function of the decoder installed and which effect function is connected to the light. Some decoders have pretty good Mars light effects when attached to a filament bulb, while others just seem to flash.
I wonder if the new release P2K E units will still have the doors that open?
These are a really neat feature on the older E units ( I have 7) and don’t look out of scale as the ones on the hood units.
On one of my FEC E7s I bent the spring behind the cabdoor on the engineer’s side slightly so that the door remains halfway open. Really attracts attention and, imho, adds to the realism.
i agree with jeff on this. i have seen his engines and have played with them. they are very quiet and can pull a lot by theyselves or together. i dont care if the nose is a little off. they look great to me, but then im just a 13 year old kid, what wuld i know
I seem to remember in an old MR review of the original P2K E8/E9’s that the models actually have greater pulling power than the prototype! I don’t know of too many model engines that can do that.
I can understand that sentiment. As weight goes: These locomotives are BRICKS! I certainly would feel sorry for the poor guy that drops one on his foot! [B)] I try to handle them with care.
BTW: The only feature that I have a hard time with are those plastic lift rings on the roof. They’re beautiful…but THEY BREAK SO EASILY! [:(]
I need to replace 10 to 15 lift rings total on various E units. Though a good note to this is that metal lift rings are available for HO units for just a couple of dollars. I bought a pack at my LHS [:)][:D]