Hello, all. I’m considering building a layout in the garage, an excuse being that my grandson has gotten his 1st train set and we could work on his modest home layout and also have fun when he visits us. This would be my 3rd entry to the hobby…I’m now retired and it seems right to do again (I saved nothing from the past). Nothing will happen but planning and research for awhile since I would have to sell an old hobby car in the garage to make room for a nice size layout.
I’m comfortable with exploring layout planning for now, using XTrackCAD and reference books. I can post a draft later when I settle on size and layout.
My key questions at this stage are: A) assuming a significant part of the layout will be relatively flat, is 1-2" foam board used both for quietness and to enhance terrain sculpting, B) I would likely use Tortoise switch machines, but am concerned about using when mounted below 1-2" foam board (I found the article by M. Berger but would appreciate more comments, including whether to avoid a thick subroadbed entirely because of switch machine hassle).
If it relates to any of the above, I’m biased towards Walthers Shinohara turnouts, Atlas code 83 flextrack and DCC control (brand to be decided).
Yes, The foam is used to allow sculpting, and opinions vary about quietness. I think it is fairly quiet, but I have used cork roadbed on my 1 inch foam. I used 1X4’s for framework and covered the frame with 3/8 plywood. I used tortoise sw machines and just used a longer wire. Strange thing though, I only gouged out the foam in a very few places for creeks and so on. I did add more layers of foam for hills.
My layout turned out to be more for myself than for my Grandsons!
I recommend that you use Shinohara track with Shinohara turnouts. I believe that other posters have noted a difference in tie thickness and even rail profile. As for foam, there have been innumerable threads on this forum about its pros and cons. I have no personal experience with it, but apparently quietness is not one of its virtues.
This is probably more information than you wanted, but thinking things through from the start may help clarify what you ultimately want to build. Some of this info is common sense. Most is from experience.
One of the major issues you will face will be designing a layout or track plan. The first thing to do is define the space that you have. How much of the room can you use? Do you need to have a workbench in the same room? You will get more running track if your layout is along the walls with a peninsula or two sticking out toward the center. The longest that you can reach things is about 24 inches. Thus quite a few folks make their benchwork 24 inches wide. The peninsulas can be wider because you will have access from both sides and the end.
What I do for layout design (have done so far) is define my area and benchwork first. Next I decide on a theme. (Mainline running, with a branch line(?) or other special interests.) Then I put in a mainline. I am fond of twice around the room types divided by scenery and grades.
Since I have gotten into operations, I also have a staging area of some sort, whether it is a lay-over for entire trains, or a yard that simulates an interchange yard. One track in staging is a through track for continuous running. If I put cars on it, the layout becomes point to point for operations.
Next I try and determine how many small towns I can have, and possibility one city with a yard and loco facilities, without them crowding one another. Usually small yards and facilities unless I have the room for larger ones. I will try to fit in a way-side industry or two just for variation as long as it won’t crowd things.
Then I go looking at plans for modular railroads. I look for ones that would make good towns or cities because their track plans are usually fairly compact, and most of the way they will be switched is already determined with a good track p
A very nice HO-scale layout can be fitted into a two-car garage. Here is a picture of Ed Merrin’s layout in such a space, showing one of two aisleways. The layout can handle a crew of 8 or so.
I too am building a model railroad in my garage. I can only get 11’ x 16’ for the track/benchwork space. I am currently using a duckunder but very soon plan on putting in a liftout. My benchwork is around the walls and 30" deep. What I do want to tell you is prepare the garage, ie; lights, insulate and paint the walls if they are not already done. Once the benchwork is in, this is a very difficult task. Climbing and leaning over. Yuk, I am too old for that. Enjoy your new hobby and grandson.
I would buy a good book about this subject (bench work).
This is the tricky line. What do you mean, your track work is flat and the scenery around it is a bit hilly with a river? Or do you want to incorporate some grades and have a high line over a bridge? In a book the benefits of each system are explained and so will help you to make the proper choice.
BTW Mac the gandydancer made a remark about defining the space and the bench work first. Again a tricky line. In any given smaller space the number of bench work options is low in numbers. But it can be worthwhile to be flexible. So do not define your benchwork but see it as a adjustable option.
Ok, I have done a lot of research on the subject and found out that probably the least amount of noise is generated by a ply base (seen too many answers on thickness from very thin to 3/4 thick) covered by 2" foam and since you want tortoise switch machines you won’t have any worries about mounting them ( though a number of people have successfully mounted them to just foam.