I would like to build a replica of the East Broad Top paint shed from styrene. My concern is how do I keep the roof from warping if I follow the prototypical roof stucture which has very little apparent supporting structure. The support structure looks to be made of rather minimal steel cross braces and trusses. I want to be able to lift the top off the model to view the interior because it is located towards the front of my (yet to be built) layout, so I want the interior and the underside of the roof to look relatively realistic. My concern is that if I duplicate the structure in styrene as per the pictures it will warp over time. How do I make a 13" x 4" peaked roof stay straight? If you wish to look at the prototype google EBT photos and after some searching you will find a few pictures of the brick paint shop. Actually, the site is very interesting just to spend some time looking at the efforts of a truly dedicated group of rail fans! Your sage advise is very much appreciated.
Thanks for your help.
Dave
First, are you looking to model the Paint Shed (small metal building between the garage and the storage sheds) or the Paint Shop (brick building with metal roof)? Normally, the best way to build a building with a removable roof is to have the roof trusses as part of the removable roof. This will give it stability and strength.
As Tom notes, make the trusses part of the removeable roof. The coal dealer’s shed, shown below, has its roof framed with trusses built-up using styrene angle. I then attached styrene strips lengthwise across the top chords of the trusses, tying them together and providing fastening points for the Campbell corrugated siding (similar to how a prototype roof would be constructed). The siding material was attached with contact cement. The roof is removeable and hasn’t warped noticeably in the at least 5 or 6 years it’s been in place.
Wayne
Sorry about not being clear on the structure - I would like to model the brick Paint Shop.
Dave
It doesn’t matter what material is used for the walls or roof, simply that the roof is framed in a manner similar to what would be used on the real one. I used corrugated sheets directly over the framework, but for a shingled roof, you could install a roof deck. Use either a board-by-board technique or sheets of plain styrene, cemented to the roof trusses, then shingle as you would normally. The strength and stability of the modelled roof is due, like its prototype, to the fact that the framing and sheathing form a single, strong unit. If you need the roof to be removeable, simply don’t cement it in place.
Here’s a look inside from track level - if you look closely, the bottom chords of the trusses can be seen.
Wayne