I own an air brush but it seems like so much effort (i.e. cleaning[xx(]) and technique are required to use an air brush. I have also used spray cans but you are stuck with available colors and the spray mist droplets are too large.
Anybody out there have a better idea or technique that does not require the use of an air brush? Or is there an “easy-to-use” tool that gives results close to that of an air brush?[?][?][?][?]
Dude, what kind of airbru***o you own? I have a simple $20 Badger spraygun and it does every thing I need it to. If you are new to airbrushing, you should practice strokes on cardboard. Play with the nozzle, experiment with different consist of paint until you get the hang of it. Then practice painting scrap cars. I use an airbrush in lots of my weathering.
Remember, an airbrush is a valuable tool that can do things nothing else can. Its magical.
The easy to use tool is called a paintbrush, and the technic is called "drybrushing"where you use the bru***o apply paint that is almost dry and you speckle it onto the subject. Dip the brush into a little paint then dab the paint onto a sheet of paper until it starts to look like its speckling the apply it to the model with the same dabbing technic. i’m sure I’m butchering the technic with bad descriptions but thats a great technic alternative to the airbrush. waterbashed acrylic paints are good for this and clean up is pretty easy, just wash, but you’ll be best if you just designate some brushes as they will get trashed over time.
Pay a pro… The airbrush is the most effective tool for the job…
Stay with the airbrush, no question it is the best for what we do. Sounds as if you could use some mentoring by someone who is expert with it. If you know such a person, ask them to check you out on the essentials. Sure its a steap learning curve, but relatively short and very rewarding.
Get a few experimental cars or buildings from the dead pile at your LHS and take notes on mixes you use and the air pressure etc. That way you will know what works well for you and what doesn’t.
Good Luck
Randy
Certain weathering effects can be achieved by using powdered chalks, brushing them on, then fixing them with dullcoat. Often you need multiple tries to get the right effect.
Certain effects also can be achieved with “rust-all” a liquid that seems to suspend real rust in perhaps alcohol?
Dave Nelson
Hi Dave, where would you find rust-all?
I was told by my LHS that Rust-all was no longer being made, something to do with not meeting EPA requirements so they discontinued it. I have been looking for an alternative called Rottenstone that does a similar effect but have not found it yet.
I bought my rustall as part of a weathering set a few years ago.
I would think you could make your own rust-all. I have assumed it is real rust, suspended in alcohol. Find rusty metal, rub it with a wire brush over a pan to hold the particles. Then bru***he particles into a small amount of 100% alcohol. I have not done this myself. Might be worth a try.
Dave Nelson
VSM:
Rustall is listed in the latest Micro-Mark catalog, item #80755. You might check on actual availability by contacting Micro-Mark direct. www.micromark.com
I’d think a sepia ink/alcohol wash would work for weathering followed by a spray of dullcote.
Randy
I know, airbrush is the best, but i tried another version. I used standard tamyia spray bottles to paint my engines. And i got very good results with that. the P32 shown below was painted by myself with this technic using a standard athearn p40 engine.
John Allen brush painted all of his locomotives, including all the brass & diecast steam, and the scratchbuilt railcar & gas-electric units that were made of several various materials.
He wasn’t faced with the difficulty of miscellaneous striping and patterning of any diesels of course…[;)]
regards,
Mike
[quote]
Originally posted by vsmith
I I have been looking for an alternative called Rottenstone that does a similar effect but have not found it yet.
I read about a technique in the Narrow Gauge & Shortline Gazette on using rottenstone to weather items, not as an alternative to using an airbrush. I found a box of rottenstone at a local flea market, and found that it is an extremely fine gray powder intended to be used as an abrasive.
If I recall correctly, the article in the Gazette mentioned painting items, and after they had dried to place them in a plastic bag with some rottenstone. After shaking the bag, dust off the item, and the rottenstone would be dusted off, the items would take on a lightly weathered look.
Somewhat similar effects can be achieved using chalks.
Bob Boudreau
Canada
Supermicha,
Very interesting and great work by the way. If you have a chance, can you elaborate a bit more into technique, etc.
Thanks,
Sean
[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by FundyNorthern
I also have that issue, but have never been able to track down the product.
I saw an article ( can’t remember where) about making a rust weathering solution.
Take some steel wool and put it in vinigar and in a day or so , it will dissolve leaving a rusty medium that you can apply for weathering.
There is nothing spezial i think. After stripping the old shell with isopropylalcohol (available in pharmacies) i used grey primer spray also from the spray bottle. The sharp lines i masked with tamyia masking tape. for spraying, two things are important:
the paint must have a warm temperature (more than 25 degrees celsius), for that i put them on a heater for a while.
then shake the bottles for a minimum of 5 minutes.
during spraying, hold the bottles at least 20 centimeters away from the model. spray short, let the paint dry, and spray another time and so on. my model got four paintings with every color. after aplying decals, i finished all with a clear varnish.
thats all.
I saw a lot of questions above about rust. Try Tamiya color X-26, “Clear Orange”. This is the best rust color I have seen, and its acrylic so it cleans up with water.
A source for rottenstone is www.leevalley.com . Here’s a direct link to the product:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=20058&category=1,190,43040
BTW, did I miss something? How did that photo get in here?!?!
Andrew
Supermicha,
Putting a can of spray paint on a heater is very dangerous!!! The propellant in a can of spray paint is highly flammable and under pressure. Basically, you have a potential hand grenade sitting on the heater. Too much heat and pressure (heat will increase the pressure) will cause the can to explode!!![:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0]
We want to you to model safely Supermicha - I would hate to hear that you had to be rushed to the emergency room to have shrapnel (bits and pieces of the spray can) removed from your body in additon to sustaining burns.[B)][xx(][B)][xx(][B)][xx(][B)]