Easy Sharpening Up of your Passenger Car Interiors.

Hello, Train Crew [4:-)]

Just a thought to share with experienced modelers and newbies.

I enjoy passenger train modeling very much and adding to it to make it more fun. Neat hearing the “oohs” and “ahhs” from non-modelers viewing a realistic looking streamliner, or heavyweight passenger train.

For those of you that own the beautiful Walther’s, Rapido, Branchline, Model Power, Marklin, or the updated Rivorossi passenger cars, or if you’ve purchased separate interior kits:
Consider painting your interiors! I’ve painted my low cost IHC interior kits to go into my streamlined Rivorossi cars and what a difference it makes! Will also be doing my Walthers Budd interiors as well. [:)][:D][8D][8)]

Basic Suggestions
Diners I paint the table tops white. The chairs Olives or Browns and the kitchen area is Stainless Steel.
Coaches: Seats, dark tans or greens or reds.
Sleeping cars: walls Brown, Dark Tan, or Stainless steel. Beds: dark color, pillow area white.
Observation cars: chairs & tables: Variety of Flat Browns, Blues, Greens and Maroons.
All vestibules: Silver.

A few railroad application examples:

New Haven coaches, according to NHRRJET, had Royal Blue seats .

B & O had dark blue chairs in their streamlined diners.

Amtrak in the early 70s used medium blue (not too far off from Conrail Blue), then the

Antonio,
Thank you for the helpful hints regarding painting the passenger car interiors. I will definitely begin painting them.
I have one question though. I bought a Walthers double-deck passenger car and was going to detail the interior with lights and HO scale people. However, I found that the seats would not fit the people. Have you had this problem with Walthers cars and if so, how did you overcome it? I didn’t buy any additional cars because I really like to be able to see “people” in my cars, even if they are not lit up.

Thank you,
Mondo

Antonio,
Thanks for the really useful info here. I’d been wondering about what colours to use to tone down the bright [:P] IHC interiors. Thing is I’ve got lots of photos of the outside of cars, but not many of the inside.

James

Me too. Never thought of painting the interior budd cars but I did add sitting people.

However since I installed IMs I lost the advantage of the super light kits and had to sell the kits.
It was a case of too much wheel drag with the stock set.

Mondo, are you using standing people? If so, cut the lower half off up to their waist.

You mean you don’t like the gaudy colors the IHC interiors come in? Thanks for the tips. I need to get some more weight into my cars, so while I am at it I will give them a lick of paint.

Hi Simon,
Just a thought about you adding weight to the cars. I’ve found that lead shot, available at Gun Shops, is a great way to add weight to passenger cars. There are little “wells” in the base of some of the cars where lead shot can be added. Just place them in the wells and any other spot where they won’t show and pour on some Tacky glue (available at craft stores like Michael’s) and let it set. The guy at our local gun shop gave me about 4 lbs. of shot in a bag that was broken for free. That’s enough to add an ounce to 64 cars.

Good luck.
Mondo

Hi Chuck,
To answer your question, I was trying to add sitting people to the cars. However, even if I cut off the legs, the seats were way too small to fit “people”.

Thanks,
Mondo

Hey fellas,

Good to know that you’re giving it a try. What I like about this is that at times I’m not in the mood for mechanical work on my equipment (Athearns-what a struggle!) so I find painting the details on the interior kits very relaxing. Even non modelers are impressed!

Mondotrains, adding people is one of my goals for some of the passenger cars. Thanks for the heads up on the difficulties. Just now after reading your post, I “trial fitted” some “people” on an IHC coach seat. Only one figure “barely” fits in the seat instead of two like in the prototype. As many times I’ve ridden trains, I didn’t even notice that the IHC and Walther’s interiors come with only one row of seats on each side, instead of two!

This sounds a little “Grizzly” but it looks like for a reasonably good fit, one can
[1] Cut the legs below the knee,
[2] Then file the figure’s “bottom and back of the legs,” flat,
[3] Glue the figure to the seat.

It has to be a figure that’s already in a sitting position. Experimenting is part of the fun!

A forum member recently suggested using white styrene for window blinds (better than cardboard or cardstock). Since I like looking in I plan on having white horizontal blinds barely visible at the top of the windows on only a few of my cars. One or two blinds will be closed. This is again, to make a passenger train look “typical”.

just a thought:[8)]

Why are the littlepeoplemanufacturers not supplying us with ready made figures or even duo’s with the right measurements to fit inside these interiors?

this is not the first time I read remarks about this [2c]

I only have the Walthers Budd cars and installed Preiser sitting people. By the way, Preiser
makes a ton of figures and they have their own catalog. Goes for $14.00 + shipping out of
Miami shop but carries a $25.00 miminum order.

I would suspect the problem is with the interior and not with Preiser.

Hey Lupo,

IMHO, Locomotive3 is correct. When you carefully look at the seats, they’re not the correct size nor style of prototype passenger car seats. Apparently IHC/Walther’s keeps them generic as seats are not “too visible” and most modelers with passenger cars don’t add figures inside. All we can do is adapt.

However, I have to say that a few years back I saw some Europeon HO passenger cars. I don’t remember what brand (want to say Marklin) but I was very impressed with how nicely detailed the interiors of these cars were. Countoured seats, and tables. I also remember though that they were quite expensive.

If they were Marklin, they were expensive. The quality of Marklin is truly superb. Thanks for the tip on using shot. There are plenty of places under the interior kit to get some in. What are you guys doing for wheels and trucks on the IHC models? The stock wheels and trucks have to be the worst made I have ever seen!

Thanks Antonio, it is an excellent thread. I will read through it all in some detail.

Having read the discussion in the “Replacement wheels …” thread another problem springs to mind in replacing IHC/ Rivarrossi wheelsets.

If you simply replace the plastic 33" wheelsets [xx(] with more prototypical 36" - the car rides too high. Firstly, it looks odd as the roof profile is obviously too high compared to other cars. Secondly as the couplers are on the trucks you would have to end up adjusting the coupler height as well with an over centre coupler. Alternatively you could start cutting away the molded on boss on the car floor and replacing it like Andy Sperandeo did in his MR article a while back, this seemed like a whole lotta work to me …

… so in the end I replaced the truly horrid plastic wheels with Kadee 33" freight car wheels and haven’t looked back.[^]

Here’s another one for the seat color list.

Southern Pacific stainless steel coaches with the red stripe above the windows. Coach seats are a dark red color. Appears that “Caboose Red” would be reasonably close.

Saw this in the early 70s movie “The Getaway” starring Steve McQueen and Ali McGraw. Good shots of the interior.

Another cheap source of lead, although it requires a bit more work for small places, is to get discarded tire weights from auto shops.

I’ve been using these on scratchbuilt brass locomotive frames to add weight to the fuel tank area. I’ve also used plaster poured over a modeling clay cast of the bottom of an Athearn tank car to bring it up to weight.

To melt the lead I hold the steel clip with pliers, take a propane torch to the weight and let it drip into the mold. It ends up lumpy, but takes up less space and gives a lower center of gravity than those cheap Athearn weights (of course the cars are short on weight - people pay to ship by weight - you want to pay for it?).

Whole 1 ounce weights can be used for boxcars. The clips make a handy spot to glue them to the floor.

Another Interior Color Tip.

For the Proto 1000 New York City IRT Subway cars, the bench seats are Dark Gray. (as a kid though, I do distinctly remember seeing a few red bench seats, but by 1970 I didn’t see anymore.)

Just an observation:
Someone pointed out on another thread that the Walther’s and IHC interior kits are “cruddy”. One must realize though that when neatly painted seats, tables, beds, and walls are viewed through the passenger car’s windows they look sharp and add realism to a train!

Otherwise, if Marklin did sell their passenger car interiors separately, I’ll be the first in line to purchase one. But, as a wise maintanance man I knew told me years ago when I was in my 20s complainig: “Don’t complain. You gotta work with what ya got!”
Good rule of life!

Cheers and Peace!

Another interior color discovery.

The inside of Seaboard Airline streamlined diners from the late 1940s. Walls were 2-tone gray, leather covered chairs black, and of course tables covered with white cloths.
Might have been one of the “Silver” service trains.

The interior 2 tone was an eye catcher as the windows had a 2 to 3 inch border of light gray while the rest of the walls were dark grey. Tastefully done for such a normally drabby color! Saw this on a color video clip.

Antonio, you are the absolute master of keeping topics bubbling along on the front page[:D] I commend your efforts!!

Antonio

Do the daylight cars have the same seat color as the red stripe cars.

Nick

I also need help with floor, wall and roof color. I take it the toilets in the restrooms are white?