Electrical blocks

Model Railroader Electronics and DCC
1

Being new to the hobby, I thought it would be easier to follow the N scale Erie Empire layout from MR Dec 2010. Can anyone help me with laying out the electrical blocks and the reversing loop, ie where to put the insulating joiners. This will be DC with 2 cabs. thanks

steve

2

It does not answer question directly but if you are going to do fairly complex layout before you get too far into the hobby and start aquiring a fleet of trains, I would highly recommend going DCC, then you wont have to worry about blocks and auto reversing is nothing more than a reverser and a couple gaps.

3

Doesn’t answer the man’s question, but it does re-enforce what I’ve been saying for a long time…

Mark

4

So, why didn’t you answer the man’s question MArk?

5

Steve

Let me look up the plan, think about things, and I’ll get back to you.

Edit: First impressions after looking at the track plan:

  1. My first thought is to use the inside loop on the right from the passing track turnout on the bottom to just past the turnout for the switching area on the diagonal. This reversing section (block) has to be longer than the longest train you are attempting to reverse. You can gain a little more reversing length by including more of the diagonal, but I would keep the yard lead turnout out of the reversing section.

The diagonal by itself is probably too short to be the reversing section, hence the use of the curve and just a small part of the diagonal for the reversing section.

  1. This is a layout that would benefit significantly from power routing turnouts when setting up for DC. Power routing will save up to as many as 5 block toggles on this layout. You didn’t say which turnouts you would be using. Peco Electrofrog are the only commercial power routing turnouts I know of in N.

But Atlas and other insulated frog turnouts can be made to be the equivalent of power routing by adding a contact to the switch machine or turnout throw that controls the polarity beyond the turnout frog.

The power routing routes power to the path the turnout is thrown for automatically, and shuts off power to the other path. This can be used in lieu of extra block toggles in the yard and the industrial area very effectively.

  1. I will scan and mark up the layout plan with my ideas for blocking tomorro
6

Steve, While setting up a simple two cab DC control system is not that difficult, it is not easy to explain in words, but is much easier to explain with drawings.

As of this reading of your post, I am not very familiar with the layout you are refering to. I do remember glancing at the article, but would need to look at it again to offer any help.

There are several good books on DC cab control and the NMRA web site has some basic DC control info as well. http://www.nmra.org/beginner/

If I get a chance I will take a look at the article and get back to you.

Sheldon

7

It is basically a twice around with a single reversing loop. Two train continuous operation will be two trains chasing each other since there is only one track that could be used for a passing sidings. To do facing trains either one train sits on the siding waiting for the other then park and take its turn OR each will be confined to one loop utlizing the crossovers in the front. One train would wait for the other train to pass through the crossover then proceed through the opposite crossover into its own loop. Continually repeat.

For two train operation the minimum number of blocks is 4 and that can get tricky. So to finally get to your question:

First thing would be to double block both ends of the reversing loop.
Then both ends of the “passing” siding all by itself.
From there the “main line” adjacent to the passing siding.
Obviously block the center of the two crossovers.
From there it gets more tricky… Starting from the Station let us take the inside loop counter clockwise. There should already be insulated rail joiners off both tracks coming out of that switch - the passing siding and its main.

approach the turnout to the reversing loop (should already be insluated joiners there too), but wait, this would be a good spot to break the main too. Proceeding past the “42” and the trestle we turn down and about where that 41" mark is on the main. That is where I would put the next block. Around the hidden curve and out the front I would put the next block right before the crossover and the next one after the 2nd crossover. This is because this is wh