Is a Peco electro-frog swith a insulated or non-insulared switch. Thanks
Non-insulated frog
The frog is not insulated and requires a Peco relay to change the frog’s polarity. If you are not going to power the turnout, the relay won’t do you any good and you’ll wind up with an electrical short. Use the Insulfrog turnouts if you want to save money.
I use Peco electrofrogs wherever I can. I have a PL10 switch machine mouted under the switch and a PL13 contact mounted under the PL10. When the PL10 moves the PL13 moves with it, making sure the polarity is correct with the direction of the turnout.
I love 'em.
Happy modeling!
The electrofrog is a bit more complicated to use, if you don’t use a switch machine you should use a mechanical link to a microswitch to do the same function as the machine contacts. This removes the reliance on point to stock rail contact (which get dirty) for frog power. Rail gaps with insulated rail joiners are necessary if you apply power from the frog end such as a passing siding.
One nice thing about frog powering is the ability to route power to one of two diverging routes, but this can also be done by adding external switch contacts to the insulated frog turnout as well. The main advantage of the electrofrog is that all power pickup wheels are always in contact with a powered rail and the possibility of a slow moving locomotive stalling out is reduced.
But don’ they suggest using Eltro-frog switches when using DCC?
For my new layout, I want to know if I can get by with insulated frog switches on a DCC system. I an not a wiring guy and would rather use the easier insulated frogs if possible. Will I regret this later with the DCC?
Ron
Is a Peco electro-frog swith a insulated or non-insulared switch. Thanks
Non-insulated frog
The frog is not insulated and requires a Peco relay to change the frog’s polarity. If you are not going to power the turnout, the relay won’t do you any good and you’ll wind up with an electrical short. Use the Insulfrog turnouts if you want to save money.
I use Peco electrofrogs wherever I can. I have a PL10 switch machine mouted under the switch and a PL13 contact mounted under the PL10. When the PL10 moves the PL13 moves with it, making sure the polarity is correct with the direction of the turnout.
I love 'em.
Happy modeling!
The electrofrog is a bit more complicated to use, if you don’t use a switch machine you should use a mechanical link to a microswitch to do the same function as the machine contacts. This removes the reliance on point to stock rail contact (which get dirty) for frog power. Rail gaps with insulated rail joiners are necessary if you apply power from the frog end such as a passing siding.
One nice thing about frog powering is the ability to route power to one of two diverging routes, but this can also be done by adding external switch contacts to the insulated frog turnout as well. The main advantage of the electrofrog is that all power pickup wheels are always in contact with a powered rail and the possibility of a slow moving locomotive stalling out is reduced.
But don’ they suggest using Eltro-frog switches when using DCC?
For my new layout, I want to know if I can get by with insulated frog switches on a DCC system. I an not a wiring guy and would rather use the easier insulated frogs if possible. Will I regret this later with the DCC?
Ron