When the local electronic parts stores and train hobby shop closed here in Bakersfield I was forced to go to mail order. With the free shipping option on eBay that has worked for me for the last 8 years.
1, 2 & 3 It may or may not vary by manufacturer of the DCC system. I’m sure Randy knows, but I don’t. We just had a thread on NCE. The tool would be a crimper, but they are often specific to the number of wires in the cable.
4 Warm white 3mm led, 1000 ohm resistors, work for my period the transition era.
5 Decoder connection wire generally 30 ga, available in packs of the appropriate colors from Litchfield Station or Tony’s Trains.
Sources depending on what you need for cable and tool, you may be able to buy it from Home Depot or Digikey or Mouser Electronics on the web. Yes I have bought cheaply from Ebay China sources, but given what I have read recently on involuntary organ donation, I can no longer justify doing so.
I have been using 3mm LEDs for headlights, as I model the early 50s I use Warm White LEDs for the 50s look. Bright White would look better in newer locomotives. I use the standard 1000Ω ¼ watt resistors for headlights, much higher value for interior lighting.
The wire used for NCE and Digitrax is often referred to as RJ12 but that isn’t an actual specification - it’s really RJ11 6p6c (6 pins, 6 conductor). NCE only uses 4 of the wires, but trying to put 4 wire cable in a 6 pin connector is asking for trouble because it’s easy to offset it, and then things won’t work. There are no issues having all 6 wires in the plugs for NCE.
For headlights I use golden white LEDs for first gen diesels. A variety of sizes depending on the loco. Mostly the 3mm size, but for some the 5mm size fits in place of the original incandescent bulb. I don’t need ditch lights or anything for my era so I have no need of tiny surface mount LEDs, yet. I usually ge