After reviewing the results of my last posted question about maximum grade for my HO layout, I have determined that I can’t do what I want in the space limitations. I still need to have track that is several inches above the track on the base. I want several trestles as track goes from one mountain to another with trains running below the higher trains.
I do however have adequate space to build a train elevator (Don’t laugh!!) inside a mountain at the back side of my layout (with access to the inside of the mountain and the elevator from behind the layout). There is not enough space to build a helix so that is out also.
A couple of years ago at a train show, I saw a Lift bridge over a river with a barge that moved under the bridge. When the barge approached the bridge lifted up to allow the barge to go under. then the bridge lowered back down and the train traveled accross.
That was a very impressive exhibit. My thought is that if you stopped the train on the lift bridge, then raised it to a second track level, you could then start the train and drive off the bridge at a higher level.
My question is has anybody ever build such an elevator (or a lift bridge) for their train layout, and if so what problems did they have to overcome.
The exhibit I saw looked like it worked fantastic, however the train was not on the bridge when it lifted. If it was on the bridge, would the lift process cause too much shaking and cause the train to derail? What method would you use to insure that the train didn’t roll off one end or the other while it was lifting.
I could sure use extra brain power in trying to think thru the feasiblity (and potential problems) of building this kind of train elevator.
By the way, I’m only talking about an elevator long enough to hold a steam locomotive and one or two cars maximum to be spotted at a mine or logging camp.
Yeah been there done that, but never again On an earlier double deck layout I tried a train elevator between the 2 decks. I fiddled around a long time trying to get a mechanism that would operate smoothly to lift about 2 feet. Never really mastered it though. Also lift was hand operated and was a pain to operate particularly when I just wanted to watch the trains go round. As a concept though it was a goer but I think an automated power drive is desirable. John Armstrong in his Kalmbach book “Creative Layout design” discusses how to change levels without a spiral by such devices as a vertical turnout or a dehydrated canal lock. If you wish to explore this idea further the book would be a good starting point.
I used a trainlift on a layout once. I had it set up as a dead end spur on the main level and a matching space on the level above. The length of track was mounted on a piece of plywood that had four metal rods through it, two at either end, projecting through the top and bottom. These would go into tapered holes that would align the track section with the track. The section itself was raised and lowered by a pair of nylon cords that passed through screw eyes above the layout and down to the operators position.
I am sure that the HO module that you observed at the train-show was one of the clubs from in and around the St. Louis area. The barge passes under the bridge, the bridge drops back down while the barge moves around a loop and then heads back towards the bridge repeating the process. It is darned impressive. I spoke to some of the club members and as you can imagine the whole thing is scratch-built. It has been a while since the conversation but I seem to recall that they used Lego pulley wheels and some sort of Lego track system to provide the vertical movement. They of course do not have to worry about track power at the top of the lift. They don’t have to worry about the weight of a train and they don’t have to worry about track alignment at the top and bottom of the lift. You will have these additional joys to look forward to.
I saw a train elevtor once that used a scissors jack from a van. The deck was guided by rods to keep everything in alignment. The jack had a motor on it to allow it to rise and fall on demand.
This may not be much of a help, but one in Model railroader I thought I saw an advertisement for a shelving system that worked just like that. It had several shelves with track to act as staging that would rise up, level by level, so you could move out the train.
Here’s a web site that shows a train elevator. I found this by typing the phrase ‘train elevator’ into Google, and there are other sites available if you do the same.
Thanks for the quck reply from everyone. I am very encouraged and am now ready to begin developing a detailed plan. From your comments, there are lots of possiblities. If anyone else has ideas, please continue to reply. Its always better to have lots of ideas and then narrow the field down to what is best for the situation.
Simon, you are right. I saw the barge module at the train show in Collinsville, Illinois. It still is one of my favorite modules that I’ve seen at the train show.
The reply about using prong fasteners for contacts to indicate the location of the track was great. In my former “real life” (I no longer can do the physical work, so I have long since switched carrers to a desk job) I was an electricain for about 18 years. Way back in the 70’s I had the privilege of designing the electrical schematic for a homemade elevator from a gentleman’s basement to his main floor as he could not negotiate the stairs anymore. He designed the elevator cage and used a 1/2 ton electric chain hoist to lift it. I had to design the mechanisms to insure that the eleveator stopped at exactly the right spot and that he had push button control for both up and down. In actuallity, that is a fairly easy thing to design. At that time (remember this is back in the 7’s) a local elevator company estimated the cost to build it for him was about $15,000. He put less than $100 dollars into building the cage, plus the cost of the chain hoist. I put only $300 into the electrical parts and the labor time was only a few hours. So the cost savings was tremendous. Suffice it to say, when I get into the design phase a little deeper, I have no doubt that I will be able to resolve all of those nitty gritty little details and I definitely will be using very inexpensive items (like prong fasteners) to build the elevator.
On my list of things to do is a John Armstrong - type ‘dry canal lock’ elevator about 4 feet long. I expect to build the ‘car’ with a length of steel stud material. Lift will be approximately 12 inches. I expect the engineering to be rather straightforward, and the plan calls for manual operation (lever through the fascia, lock pins at both ends.)
Some time back there was a thread about an elevator riding on two scissors jacks. You might find it with a forum search.
As for your elevator - good luck (found at the intersection of preparation and opportunity.)
I live about 4 miles down the road from Collinsville. There is another trainshow coming up in March, so something to look forward to. Are you from this area? Are you another lister that frequents K-10 trains in Maryville?
I agree. That sissor jack method is fantastic. I had drawn a detailed plan for a geared lift, but this is much more simple and the movie showing how it docked was excellent. It’s a definite go for my layout. Now it’s a matter of time to build and money to buy the parts.
I plan on going to the train show in March. Are you involved in one of the clubs that are exhibiting? And yes, I visit K-10 in Maryville. I just found out about it a few months ago so I’ve only gone a few times. Maybe we can touch base at the train show.
No, I’m not in a club, though K-10’s is almost like a club with its operating sessions and all. I will be going to the show with my 2 boys, one of whom will scour every inch of the place looking for WW2 aircraft, the other getting excited about any train on display. Perhaps the week before the show I can post a thread to see who wants to say hello at the show? There are several folks from around here on the list.
try using window regulator from a car. The hand crank are more adjustable for the amount of lift you want and if they can hold a good size peice of glass a loco and a few cars should be easy[:D]
One of the easiets ways to build an elevator was described in the 2001 edition of Model Railroad Planning.
Using ball bearing drawer guides and two pieces of 3/4" plywood, I built a semi circle manual elevator that allows me to move a 6’ train up and down 22" from one level to another. The most difficult part was finding the proper weights to use for the two counter balances.
I use simple window locks on the upper and lower levels to keep the elevator in place.
Total cost was about $50.00 and about 20 hours of work to put it in place.