I have at least one of the new SDL-39 resin kits that Kaslo Shops is shipping right now that I want to convert so that it has dynamic brakes. I am modeling it as a fantasy loco, a Rio Grande SDL-39, and asked for help on this in another thread, with the ugly [B)] details here if you want to read why:
Maybe everyone is so shocked at what I plan to do…
[V]
I need to know what EMD dynamic brake HO detail part is most appropriate to use for this purpose, as I am clueless about what different sizes these EMD DB assemblies come in. I presume that there are different sizes available. Since I’ve have very little experience detailing diesels, I wanted to ask those with wider experience than mine what size or manufacturer/part number DB in HO I am looking for.
The SDL-39 is shorter overall than other closely-related EMD locos. I measured the blank space on top of the hood where the DB goes as about 8.5 feet long, but don’t have either my library or other EMD models handy right now for reference or comparison.
More generally, perhaps others are curious about the different EMD DB assemblies available. I never thought of this question myself until I started thinking about this project.
In the era that the SDL-39 locomotives were built, the NA EMD SD models generally had two 48" fans for the DB, and the GP model had one 48" fan. The size and number of DB fans is directly related to the amount of dynamic braking horsepower available - all of this power is converted into heat and disappated by the airflow cause by the DB fan(s).
The SDL-39 is a small light locomotive, which would not have heavy trains, and thus would not need high power dynamic brakes, typically found on SD units. The typical GP DB would probably suffice.
I would suggest using the DB hatch from an Atlas GP40, Athearn GP40-2, GP50 or new (ex RPP) GP35.
Thanks, that just the kind of info I was looking for. I found Atheran Part 47201, a two-pack of GP40-2 dynamic brake, to be very reasonably priced. The only question I have is whether these fit Athearn’s that are the old “wide body” or the newer scale width hoods. I know that the Kaslo SDL39 hood is scale width.
You would be closer to the era for the dymanamics if you start with an Atlas GP38 or 40 hatch. The blisters will be closer to the prototype than any of the dash 2 and the angular 50 wouldn’t be close at all.
45038 SD40-2 DYNAMIC BRAKE HOUSING (this is the pre-1980 part, as another is listed as “post-'80”)
46038 GP38-2 DYNAMIC BRAKE
47201 GP40-2 DYNAMIC BRAKE
Here’s the Atlas part numbers:
910295 GP-38 early Dynamic Brake Hatch (plus other, separate parts for the fan assembly)
890295 GP-40 Dynamic Brake Hatch (plus other, seperate parts for the fan assembly)
So it looks like the Atlas may offer better detail, too, since the fan parts are seperate parts and likely provide a higher level of detail to the all-one-part Athearn hatches. The Atlas parts will have to be cut down, as they provide a longer part of the top of the hood than the Athearn part. On the other hand, this will leave more more to work with to let me chop them to fit the SDL-39 shell best.
I suppose there might be detail parts available from others that would allow even greater detail than those provided with the Atlas fan assembly parts. Can anyone recommend fan detail parts that will work well with the Atlas hatches? Is it worth the trouble? I assume that the Atlas parts are plastic and metal fans might be available from others, for instance.
Mike, I’m not aiming this at you personally, but if one wants to really do the “modelling”, then one has to start off with the right tools and for me, the most basic tool is the Walthers catalog, (and I don’t mean on-line). Most of Mike’s questions could’ve been answered by opening up the catalog. I have been building railroad models since 1965 and bought my first catalog in 1970, it has been the most valuable tool and source of inspiration ever since. I get a new one ever 2 or 3 years and have never regretted the expense.
I love answering questions and sharing my lifetime of experience and some opinions[:D], (see how many posts I’ve made). One of those opinions is that this RTR mentality and the internet, (“Oh, I’ll just post the questions, somebody will look it up for me”), seems to have hindered rather than helped the development of some of the skills and appreciation of the tools we use to accomplish or modelling goals.
Detail Associates, Details West, Cannon, Train Station Products are just a few of the producers of diesel details that you can find in the Walthers catalog, pick one up asap. And no, I don’t work for them.
I know what you mean, but I’m away from home right now and don’t have access to my 2007 Walthers catalog – or the other, older ones. Don’t even have a scalerule handy, although I do have access to a metric ruler and can convert those measurements to HO scale.
The Walthers website, well, is just not as useful. And I don’t think Cannon & Co. even has a website. When one is somewhat worried about making parts from different manufacturers work together, it is often quite helpful to ask those who might have passed down that same road before.
Nevermind that no prototype SDL-39 ever had dynamic brakes, so I am kind of treading on unfamiliar territory.
I appreciate your advice as a good generality. But I was kind of hoping that this thread might also inspire others who are diesel detailing beginners, as I am, even with said catalogs in hand.
Now, if anyone wants to ask a question about Colorado narrow gauge, I can probably do that off the top of my head to a certain extent.
While I tend to believe that it’s good to learn the basics for yourself, it also helps promote the hobby to help others here on the board to bring up topics that others can help with. I guess, in a certain sense, that many questions here could be answered with “Get a catalog” – but that would probably make this is much less useful forum than it is for everyone of us, beginners or otherwise.
I wasn’t trying to rebuff your last question, but it was a bit general, so I gave a general answer.
As far as fans go. Brass ones have been available from Overland but stock is sporadic, (parts are leftovers from model runs), Precision Scale (Bowser) has 48" fans from their SD40-2 superdetail parts. Plastic ones other that the ones previously mentioned would be the new ones from Cannon and the ones from Train Stration Products. With the exception of Athearn’s, they are all see-thru with separate fan blades and accurate in their detail. The precision Scale ones are the oldest and a bit less sharp. I’ve used a lot of the TSP fans over the years and they’re quite excellent. The Atlas fans are comparable to the TSP. The Cannon fans I haven’t seen in person but based on their MR ad and past products, I’ll bet they’re the best looking. The Overland fans, if available, are great and of course strong being brass.
I would probably choose the simplest method which would be to use either the Atlas GP 38 or 40 db sections. As your sd is an Atlas unit there would a better chance of body width demensions being the same, (less work).
I’ll try to get back with some links and any other ideas.
Thanks for indulging me, as your info is quite helpful in assisting me in sizing up my options. I wasn’t aware of the Train Station Products fans and the new Cannon & Co. ones, as you say, will likely be excellent, sight unseen, from what I’ve always heard about their stuff.
Actually, my SDL-39 is the new Kaslo Shops release. I know it’s scale width, but given the vagaries of production, it still may be a slightly different width than the Atlas scale width hood. I think that is something I’ll just have to obtain the parts and then get things lined up to be able for comparison to tell whether there will be any showstopping discrepancies.
Any additional tips would be very much appreciated. [bow]
I noted that Cannon and Co. did not have a website earlier in this post. However, while perusing this month’s issue of RMC, I noted their ad now lists a website:
It’s still under construction, but soon there should be a handy online reference for Cannon and Co. diesel detailing parts. Newbie diesel detailers like me should bookmark this site. Old hands may want it, too, to keep as a handy reference.