I recently purchased a Bachmann steam engine number 3283 (ATSF). I ran it across the track and it ran fine. I began to go to the first switch and it stopped promply. The engine appears to have a smaller wheelbase then the swtiches allow for. The black plastic that is in place of the usual metal for the switches seems to be hitting it. I am wondering if the problem can be solved with simply cutting off the inner black part of the switches which look like this I{}I. If anyone has experience with this please help.
I have some cheap atlas switches, and the locomotive coupler keep jamming against the frog (the plastic part you are talking about). This may be your problem too. I am fed up with the switches and am going to throw them away (probably the locomotive too, its a piece of junk too).
Cut off the piece that hangs down from the coupler if you don’t use uncoupling ramps, or change to a knuckle coupler and cut off the trip pin if it is too low. You don’t indicate what type of coupler this locomotive has, but if it is a Spectrum, it should already have a knuckle coupler. I cut off the trip pins on all of my locomotives and rolling stock because I will never use uncoupling magnets.
the wheels are to close to each other to pass through the switch where it comes together…nothing is hanging to low. it has kadee couplers
you didn’t say what brand of switch it is, some perform better than others in this reguard.
Jay
sorry about not stating which type of switch they are…I believe they are all Atlas “standard switch” The number for the left switch like this is #2700, not sure if that helps. I was just wondering if there is anyway to salvage the money worth that I have spent on all this by cutting part of the switch or something to that extent.
Sounds like the back-to-back measurement on your wheelsets is too narrow - check it with a gauge - your LHS should be able to supply you with one. Just ask for a back to back gauge. It should be about 14.5mm I think (this seems to work on Peco track).
Yea Atlas turnouts are good for diesels and the larger steams, but Peco and Shinohara turnouts are better for the smaller steams.
Unfortunatly, cutting the frog will do not do any good, except maybe to destroy the integrity of the frog, thus rendering the turnout section prone to derailments.
had to hunt the Bachmann sight, but finally found the 3283, it’s a 0-6-0 with tender, in N scale. really helps to specify the actual locomotive and scale. Since i’m not familiar with this model, what is the power situation?
is the tender catching or the loco catching? and where is it catching?
Now that i know what engine it is, i can formulate better responses.
Jay
I guess I forgot to say a couple of important parts like what scale I was modeling in. Sorry about that guys. To answer your question Jay…the wheels of the steam engine itself are getting stuck…the tender seems to have a the wheels just far enough apart on the axle to keep them from being a problem. I put the engine and the tender right next to each other (wheels to wheels) and it does seem that the engine has an axle shorter by about a mm or so then the tender. The engine itself rides right into the middle part of the switch which I have been told is a “frog” (looks like this {} or two praying hands if you ask me). The only way for me to get the engine across the section is to pick up the engine and move it to the other side of the switch…wouldnt be much fun for railroading to have to pick the engine up every loop.
This definitely sounds like a back to back problem - the wheels are set too narrow. they should be the same gauge as those on the tender. Just be careful not to alter the “quartering” (the relative postitions of the cranks) as this will damage the valve gear and result in poor running. You might be better off asking in your LHS if they can fix it for you - there are specialist tools available, but they’re a bit expensive for most of us!
Yup, sounds like the drivers are out of gauge, like stated above take it to a shop, they can pull the wheels just enough to put them back in gauge.
Jay
[2c]
Wheels out of gauge and / or turnout out of specs or too sharp of a curve. I wouldn’t recomment cutting the coupler pin or hacking up the turnout. Check your coupler and coupler pin hight with a coupler hight gauge. Another must have for the railroad is a NMRA standards gauge so you can chech things like wheels, track specs. ect…
Here’s a link to their web site. http://www.nmra.org/ You’ll find a wealth of information there.
I’m not too familiar w/ N but I think there is a possibility you may also have a “cold frog”. Small and short locos may have trouble picking up power in the frog. Check your turnout literature if they mention this problem. May need to put in a “jumper tab”. This will put power into the frog according to the direction the turnout is thrown. Atlas Snap relays can be used, or some of the ground throws also have electrical connection. This is another possibility. My HO turnouts had this problem, as I use small short locos. But check your wheels and couplers too.
I have the same problem with short wheelbase steam in HO on the Atlas insul frogs… I don’t believe the wheels are too close together. Just that the insulated frogs are too long for the locos to pick up current. If I approach the frog at a good clip, I get through, but there is hesitation. This not good for switching and I plan to ditch these turnouts in favor of Central Valley turnouts which look fabulous if a bit of work.