Done there, been that. [:o)]
Except that you raised your issue in this thread.
Rich
Same here. I have two of the Life Like GP9s. I installed P2K-SR decoders in each and never had a problem.
Rich
Yep…I run small locos and I am pretty extreme when it comes to ballast and dirt/paint and scenery materials. Easier to do when you install the switches.
Guy
In HOn3 and most narrowgauge in the smaller scales, hot frogs are the standard. It’s not so much an absolute need for it as it is the reliability they offer.
Exactly how important?
Exactly REALLY important. Do it.
Ed
In my experience I found that it was far, far more crucial to make sure switch points were powered. It was a LOT of pain to drop a feeder from each switch point, but I had NO stalls on turnouts.
The little metal tabs and other methods used by manufacturers to power points are unreliable after time. A feeder soldered to the switch point is not.
Closing in on 200 turnouts, I have found the need to add a wire to the points only a few times. Like other methods, it does improve reliabiliy.
and I’m asking for forgiveness. [angel] My post mislead the OP
Maybe You should have left OP to PO…cause’ the OP may be PO now…confusing?
‘‘Thread high-jacker’’…NAW! Just kidding! [}:)] [:-^]
Take Care! [swg]
Frankie…
I have to agree. If you need to power frogs and the turnouts are Tortoise powered, the solution is simple.
Rich
I dunno…60 years in the hobby and dozens of ISLs under my belt I never found a reason to power a switch frog even with the old timey brass track and brass wheels…
Even at slow switching speeds I never had a stall issue even with a two axle Mantua Plymouth center cab switcher over those terrible Atlas switches with the rubber looking frog.