I am experiencing expanding, (warping) on 3 Shinohara #6 Turnouts, and on 1 #6 Double Crossover. All are code 83. The warping is on one rail of each turnout that has expanded not allowing the switch to have solid contact with the side rail, as well as causing derailment from the switch not closing fully. Set-up is located in finished basement with temperature range from 55 to 68 degrees. Turnouts are located within separate controlled DC blocks. The track connected to the turnout is Atlas Flex, code 83 which are soldered at joints. Track is laid and ballast on Homosite board. The turnout and rails have been in place for about eighteen months on a new layout. Suggestions as to cause and possible fix would be appreciated.
This is why it’s important to cut gaps before/after the turnouts/crossover. You may get lucky and be able to repair it easily. I’ve had to replace several in the past.
[#welcome]
The problem is probably not the rail but the benchwork contracting or drying out. It is always good to have the wood sit in the place your going to use it for a few months. Especially if you get it from a Big Box store. They do not store lumber in a dry place before it is sold. I bought a 1x5 clear pine board and cut it to exactly 48 inches. When I finally got to use it it was cupped and warped and shrunk almost a full 3/4 inch. That was only in five days. The only suggestion I can give you right now is to cut some gaps in the rails. You may have to cut more gaps later also. Another thing is do not solder all your joints. I only solder joints on curves and leave small gaps at straights or lightly curved rail.
Hope this helps.
Pete
first thing, i use code 100 but the situation should be the same. you probably have 2 things working against you. homosote and humidity or rather lack of humidity.
i have recently had similar problems after track had been in place 8 years. i insulated my attic better and now the boiler doesn’t run as much resulting in a cooler and dryer environment in my basement.
you will most likely need to cut some expansion joints in the flex track near the switches and bridge the unwanted gap with a bonding jumper. small awg copper wire works just fine.
next, i assume your rails have spread and pushed to the outside past the little molded on spike heads on the switches. once you have relieved the strain on that rail by cutting in the expansion joints, push the rail back in to gauge and spike it down to hold it in place, after drilling through the ties you can probably push the spikes into the homosote easily but i had to drill holes for them in my wooden roadbed. (i don’t use homosote) also, i am not sure how well the homosote will hold the spikes if there is outward pressure on the rail so a judicious use of super glue might be called for.
remember, when it warms up or gets damp again you may encounter this problem in reverse. i added a small electric heater and vaporizer to get my basement back like it used to be and many of the track problems sorted themselves out on their own.
good luck
grizlump
Thanks to everyone for their input. I have my work cut out for me now!!!