I’ve been away for a while so I’m looking for info on how to build benchwork, roadbed and track that isn’t going to kink from seasonal fluctuations in humidity. As background info i plan to use code100 flex and would like to solder as many joits as possible for conductivity. Also what works well for keeping the noise down from all those little metal wheels?
Thanks, Matt
Some anti-kinky tricks…
* Purchase better-quality 1x4s without knots, plywood, homasote, etc. – for benchwork instead of those bargain-big-box-store 2x4s or particle board.
* Place your newly–purchased wood in the layout room for a couple of months to dry out in its new long-term environment before benchwork construction.
* Don’t overlook a dehumidifier if that is what it takes – or already necessary in your basement.
Good points made by tgindy – track kinks are usually caused by wood expanding and contracting more so than the track.
I have found that constructing a layout on hollow core doors topped with sound board prevents expansion and contraction problems, too, since these doors are usually primed and more moisture proof than untreated lumber.
slam72: A few suggestions for allowing expansion. Ballast tracks right after they are down. In hot weather climants the rail will “sun” kink within a few hours. Allow for expansion by gaping the rails, lets say every 6 ft., but be sure to put in drop feeders to provide power to these sections. I agree that quality lumber also helps. Also, between each module it may help to leave a 1/32" gap. When I tore down my old layout in Michigan to move to Florida, every soldered rail joint came apart without desoldering, as expansion in the ever changing tempeatures and humidity of Michigan had worked them loose with expansion and contraction. So my advice is never depend on rail joiners for electrical contact, but always use track feeders, whether using DC or DCC.
If expansion, contraction and/or humidity are really big problems, then use foam over steel studs and most of the problem is removed.
Another method is to float foam on top of wooden grid benchwork. Glue the sheets together but not to the wood. You can fasten it to the wood using wire.
As far as lumber is concerned I used heat treated Fir. It is as straight as the day I brought it home.
Another trick I was taught was, if you need a 2 x 4 and it may warp, use two 1 x 4s screwed together as they tend to keep each other in check.
As far as rail expansion goes, caulk your track down with latex caulk and leave a few inches in your curves unstuck, use “T” pins. You won’t notice them once painted and ballasted. In extreme conditions you might notice a very slight bulge in the curve when the rail expands, maybe a millimetre or so. Also in the stretches you don’t caulk down put wax paper or aluminum flashing in between the track and the cork. This will alow the track to float on top of the cork roadbed after ballasting.
I have no experience myself with extremes in humidity and heat in model railroading. A friend who did live in such an environment, showed me the above tricks and they have served him well. Good luck.[C):-)]
Brent
If you truly want to eliminate problems with humidity and the like -
Use steel studs for the benchwork and foam (pink/blue) for the layout base.
Neither one of these are affected by humidity!
I don’t use any of these in my benchwork - BUT - my current layout has been in for over 10 years and I used OSB instead of Plywood and have little problems with excessive expansion or contraction!
BUT - I also am able to maintain a fairly constant Humidity level in the basement.
This is the real key - constant humidity level !
Bob H - Clarion, PA
Matt
If I were to start another layout I think all of my joist,beams,and legs would be made out of ripped and glued 3/4" birch plywood, Good plywood is very stable. The orange color of my plywood comes from my lighting at the time.
Good luck
Lee
To some, that “noise” from the metal wheels is music…
On your main question, a little more info might be helpful, such as where do you live, where will the layout be located, what kind of extremes in temp/humidity are you looking at, etc.
One problem I had - which I thought I prepared for - was the plywood shrinking 6 months after installation, warping the track. I had let the boards set for a couple months, but that was not enough.