I have just started my second HO scale layout, and was curious about the use of foam over the plywood. I am using 1/2 inch plywood supported by a 1x4 frame. It is a “U” shaped modular layout with 2 5’x2’ and 1 3’x2’ modules on each leg connected by a 4’x1’ module (thanks to Bruce Petty). I am having to build a portable modular layout because we are an Air Force family and move every now and again. I am basing my layout on the Santa Fe line from Alpine Texas to Presidio Texas (late 50’s), as it might be if the line would have actually been a success.
Now, would there be a signifigant advantage to using foam with a layout like this, or would I be alright building directly on the plywood. There won’t be much in the way of scenery (I plan on depicting the mountains using a backdrop), and a few structures on either end.
I would not build directly on plywood because it would amplify sounds like a drumhead. A layer of foam will help quieten things down, but a different material such as Sound Board or Homasote might be even better for sound deadening; particularly the Sound Board.
Homasote is highly compressed, recycled paper and Sound Board is recycled scrap hardwood and sugar cane. Sound Board is usually more readily available at a home supply company such as Home Depot or Lowe’s.
Smitty, I used a 1/2" thick sound board type material on my layout, it worked very well for supporting turnouts and track. I also contoured the sound board for the proper right of way look. At the end of each section I used 1/2" x 3/4" material for holding the track in line so a bump would not dislocate it. At our train club we used 1" thick foam on plywood and will not do that again. It does not support the turnouts or complex track work as we thought it would. You may want to check my layout web link for construction methods. http://www.geocities.com/oldlahistory/newshelf.html Hope this helps. Bruce Petty
I am using WS foam roadbed, but I was not sure if that would sufficiently quiet things down. Noise is one of my primary concerns, and figured that may be an issue. The person that I “stole” the modular bechwork plan from used Celotex. Is that also a good option?
I would like to use Homosote, but wasn’t sure af availability. I heard that it was getting hard to come by, but that will give me an excuse to go to Home Depot today (like I need an excuse to go to the Depot). I am not familiar with the Sound Board. I will hae to check that out too.
I suppose the whole thing is that I don’t want to use foam (I am not knocking those of you who do). I just wanted something a little more solid as a base.
I highly recommend using at least a 1" layer of homasote or any foam for that matter on top of the plywood. Serves as sound deadening roadbed and you can carve landscape features right out of the foam with a steak knife. Some people even just use foam in a wood frame (by-passing the plywood altogether). I used 2" of foam so I could carve roads under the rails creating instant overpasses.
Whatever you do it should be right for you! Good luck!
I have seen your site and visit it often, and most of what I am doing is based on your techniques. Thanks a million. Without getting too sentimental, your site was the inspiration to get me started on building another layout. I am changing the track plan (so don’t sue me [;)] ) , and am using 2x4s for legs, and 1x4s as lower support on the legs, and bolting the modules together using carriage bolts. This thing has to be very portable. I am going to try to design tops to latch on the modules during moving.
Anyhow, I noticed that you were using Celotex, but someone warned me off about using it. Have you had any problems? It certainly doesn’s look like it. I am also anxious to see how you do the Surf Line (I asked about that here a couple of weeks ago). That is going to be a challenge, but I want to have a continuous loop when ever the urge arrises.
Right now I’m building the last part of the layout that will make it a full loop. This is the arch lift up that crosses over in the center of the room. Most likely it will be made from 1/4" Particle Board for the deck and 3" sides. Each end will be beefed up with plywood to support the hinges. A small chain will support its center part from the ceiling. When I’m done operating it will lift up so it is just an arch shape between the two sides of the layout, and there will never be an alignment problem as with most lift ups. My good friend Jay Polk (GMR 2006 MoPac RR) is helping me with woodworking on the project, because he has all the woodworking equipment and I have none. (Okay, I do have a small crosscut hand saw.) I’ll be doing a webpage on this project.
Here’s how I am building mine with extruded foam
No plywood used, but can be easily moved and is strong , yet lightweight, so if I ever move, two guys can easily pick it up and move it.I used two pieces of foam 4 by 8— 2 inch thick, cut one in half to give me a 6 foot width by 8 feet long.
I am building two more tables like this one, and one smaller one as layout will be “L” shaped.
Legs are bolted on with 3/8 inch bolts, cross braces are screwed in place, easily removed.
Legs are 2x4’s as are the diagonal braces.
Sides are 1x4’s and cross slats are 1x3’s, screwed and glued together.
It is very sturdy and ridgid.
If it had to be moved, unscrew diagonals, unbolt legs, pick it up and move it
Turn it on it’s side, and carry it up the basement stairway, two guys can easily do it.
Tables will attach together underside with bolts.
Used srew ajdust levelers on the bottom of the legs.
Notice I left the ends open, so the foam will simply slide up against one another.
I will use dowels slid inside of aluminum tubes that are glued into the ends of the foam for guide pins to align the tables.
Simplicity.
Pre-
Good to hear you will be posting updates on that part of the project. I am depending on Home Depot to do my plywood cuts (that is so so), and have a miter box to cut the 1x4s. I am not much for the woodworking, but have done alright so far. The bench work is very solid, especially once the modules are bolted together, so that is good enough for me. I am thinking that I sould not need any floor support for the 1’x4’ module that connects the two main portions of the “U”, so that will make things a little easier. I like the idea of hanging the “loop” portion of the layout, but I am going to have to support everything from the floor. That is going to be the last thing that I do, so we’ll see.
Drainage ditches are somthing else I considered, as well as the possibility of a couple of small wooden trestles over some dry washes. I just keep hearing that foam isn’t suficient enough to hold down track in some instances, but on the flip side it seems that foam would be great for placing scenery and structures.
Edit: I plan on using all ground throws, so allowing for under table switch machines is not a consideration.
Foam holds track just fine!
I too am going to use WS foam roadbed, simply use caulk glue ( clear).
Already tested on a smaller piece of foam. worked fine!
Then used gray colored caulk glue to gold track to foam roadbed.
That way the gray will closer match the ballast color.
I’m using 2-inch foam on a 1x4 and 1x3 frame, very much like TheK4Kid’s photos. It’s light, strong and solid. (“Light” is also important if you plan to move, remember.) Also, this kind of construction is much less susceptible to warping, expanding and shrinking with changes in humidity. Plywood, homosote and particle board will all suffer to differing degrees with changes in moisture level.
Under table switch machines will work with foam just fine also.
Just mount your switch machine on a thin piece of plywood or other wood, and glue it to the bottom of the (foam) table, with a hole made for the activating arm from the switch machine to the switch.
Here’s a photo I took to celebrate getting the first table built.
Dennis and I “posed” a few of my PRR steamers, on a few pieces of flex track, set a few buildings around for an added touch and snapped a few photos.
Engine to the far left is a P2k 2-8-8-2 ( I have two of these), middle engine isa BLI M1a or my M1b(have one of each), engine on the right is one of my two T1 Duplexes.
This is why the table is 6 foot wide, to allow for wide radius turns. 30 to 34 inch radius.
Added a couple more pictures.
Last one is of my T1 Duplex setting on my Walthers 130 foot turntable. Yes it fits!
Okay, put all the "eye candy " away and back to work!
Oh, but I like the eye candy! What’s the building with the wraparound porch? Looks like it would make a good old-time saloon with “rooms” upstairs.
Did you cut the turntable right through, or only as deep as it had to be? I think that another plus of the Foam Alone construction is the ease of doing cut-outs like this. By the way, save the pieces. I take foam scraps, shape them a bit and glue them back on top, making small-scale hills and elevation changes to relieve the flat look.
Thanks for all the suggestions. It seems a lot of folks are partial to the foam. I want to do this right the first time, especially since I know for a fact that this layout will have to move a couple of times. Weight is a big consideration here. I really wanted to use 2"x2"s for legs, but decided to go with the 2x4s for more stability, and glad I did, but at the expense of added weight. I am not sure of any signifigant weight increase of foam vs Homasote. I am taking in all I can here so I can make a somewhat educated decision.
If you use 2x4’s for legs which was a good idea, just bolt them on , so if you have to move, simply unbolt them, and then they’ll also be easier to move, when you move, just bolt them back on.
All you will need is someone to support one end of the table while you unbolt them and remove them.
This is how I did mine.
I used 3/8 by 2 1/2 inch bolts, two in each leg, works just fine.
Without legs it also makes getting around doorways, etc if you move it.
I took all this in consideration before I started building mine.
As far as getting it up and down stairways or around doorways it’s about like moving a king sized mattress and box springs bed.
Just take everything loose off the top, turn it on edge and away you go!
Mister Beasley,
I haven’t actually cut the foam out for the turntable yet.
Just set it on the table, set the T1 on it and snapped a picture.
I have a complete set of Walthers kits for steam engine service facility, just need to finish them up.
Working on the round house kit right now, and the ash pit conveyor.
The building with the wrap around porch I bought on Ebay, it’s a railraod hotel.
I think it came from Seaverville, a guy over in Ohio who sold his HO layout and his main town was Seaverville named after a baseball player.
That is exactly what I did (bolting the legs on). I used carriage bolts at a 45 degree angle and it cam out great. For the lower supports, I used 1x4 s to square everthing up, and bolted the modules together using carriage bolts. I just used drywall screws to screw the lower supports to the leg, but that is more than sufficient. The true test will be when we have to move in a couple of years. I have yet to decide how I will connect the track between the modules. I think that I am going to leave the ends of the track about 4" from the ends of the modules and connect them with sectional track similar to what the module guys do.
