On a sheet of extruded foam, how would you get a knick out of it like this one?
Those bumps are raised slightly.
The foam will be glued to the top of my benchwork. Would it also work if I used the other side that says “styrofoam” on it?
On a sheet of extruded foam, how would you get a knick out of it like this one?
Those bumps are raised slightly.
The foam will be glued to the top of my benchwork. Would it also work if I used the other side that says “styrofoam” on it?
you could spackle it, but I would just turn it over…Mike
I spackle all my dents and dings in the foamboard and where two foamboards meet to cover the joint
Rub it flush with a sanding block if you feel/know for a fact that it has some raised parts, and otherwise fill it with either acrylic latex caulk or some drywall mud/similar product. In fact, you could fill it with fine sawdust and wood glue if you wanted to. The limit is only in the imagination.
Crandell
Any of the above methods, to which I would also add Woodland Scenics foam putty. But the real question is, why do you need to? Isn’t it going to be underneath scenery? Just smooth it where you will be laying track over it. And yes, the other side will work just fine too - the writing will be hidden under your scenery. If it has a plastic film on it, remove that vefore working with it.
When I buy foam at Home Depot, I look for messed-up pieces and ask for a discount. That kind of ding isn’t going to qualify, but more damaged pieces will save you 20% or more.
You can use either side of the foam. The printing doesn’t affect anything.
If you’re putting track over that spot, cut out the raised parts. Roadbed and track will bridge small gaps, and the rest is covered with scenery anyway.
Paint it and make it look like a bedrock outcropping…