EZ Track and structures--height problem.

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I’ve been concerned that structures don’t look right around EZ Track. They sit too low next to the track.

So I raised it a little and it looks a lot better. Sorry about the focus.

It looks like a little more than a quarter inch is about right. Any ideas how I can raise everything between the tracks to make things right?

2

Between the tracks??? It’s a bit of a perminant solution but I filled mine with plaster… The roadbed is milled basswood that is about 5/16" thick… I used drywall compound (the kind you mix yourself) mixed watery thin… Then just pour it in… Make sure the table is level and there are no holes (a hot glue gun works real well to plug these up… No model rails tool box is complete without one). The plaster will level itself and dry near perfectly flat. This was done primarily because a $4 20 pound bag of plaster is much less expensive than the ballast it would have taken… Oh, btw, Be sure to mask your track so not to get plaster all over It…

[image]http://www.rolleiman.com/trains/P1000466.JPG[/image]

[image]http://www.rolleiman.com/trains/P1000470.JPG[/image]

Once the plaster begins to set, you can ‘plant’ the buildings or other details… Take a piece of saran wrap and lay it on top of the slightly hard plaster (not so hard you can’t make an indentation in the plaster) and then set your building on top of it… Gently press the building down a little bit and leave it… When the plaster is completely dry (it’ll take about 24 hours) lift the building and remove the saran wrap… What you now have is a perfect footprint for your building in the plaster. That’s how I set that Fine Scale Miniatures coaling tower … [:)]

Good luck,
Jeff

3

Actually in real live tracks are generaly higher than emediate surroundings as the ballast raises them. The difference is the earth is not flat as was once believed. It has hills and valleys. The ballast under EZ track is probably too high for scale. You need to put highs and lows on the ground around your track. The first time I put a raise in the ground with a cut in it for the track to go through I was amazed at how cool it looked. It was only about 1/2 inch above track level and the train went through it. So I guedd to answer your question you don’t need to raise all of it just near the track and not all of it near the track. If you are on plywood as it appears you might try cutting a 1/2 circle in the middle and use blocks to raise it a couple of inches

4

Chip,

What about using cork “sheeting”? You should be able to buy it in large rolls - at least 12 - 24" wide. Great for raising the foundations underneath buildings and classification yards.

Tom

5

They used cork on the Dream Plan Build DVD.

ICMR

Happy Railroading.[swg][swg]

6

I’m thinking of drywall mud on the upper level. But that area is small. The entire lower level needs to be done and ther are tracks every where. If I were to use cork I would need two layers. Anyone use that foam poster board?

7

Chip,

I was at the LHS this afternoon. Midwest sells 36" L x 11-3/4" W x 5mm (~.200") H cork rolls. What about 1/2" extrude foam insulation or drywall?

Tom

8

Foam core board.

9

I cut a set of thin extruded foam “basement sill” strips and set my station on those. I then sceniced around it and it came out…okay. Just one more thing I have to tidy up this winter.

10

Just cram cardboard under all your structures. Looks like it worked the first time. He He.

11

I use foam posterboard to create a smooth surface for buildings and streets–the 1/8" thickness is just right to match up with Code 100 track with no roadbed underneath it. It needs to be glued well, though, or it will warp over time in changing temperatures. For ground that doesn’t have to be perfectly smooth I use drywall mud or Sculptamold.

The problem with cardboard is that I assume you wll eventually want to add scenery–cardboard will swell and warp if you surround it with plaster, etcetera. The drywall mud technique might be best for your application–cheap, and good for scenery base. Just make sure to figure out how high up your buildings need to go, so the decks of boxcars etcetera meet up with the loading docks on your industries!

12

Might look at using those flat styrofoam trays that meat from the local store usually comes on. I once purchased a whole bag of these for a party we hosted for a few bucks. You could trim down the edges and sit them open side down. I think they are about 1/2" deep.