EZ-Track and True Track Elevation Question.

A while ago I read a post from some one who was using EZ-Track.

I would like to try some EZ-Track out on a small 4X8 layout and would like to know how hard it is to go from dead flat to a reasonable rise, incline of less then 3".

Any thought of issues and likes and dislikes between each brand will be appreciated.

Thanks.

It is tricky because the fake ballast rigidifies the rails. What I did was to cut the plastic skirting in a couple of places, sort of like a kerf, and that allowed a bit more flexure. Even then, I recommend that you build a sturdy ramp on which it will all sit, and that will allow you to glue or to screw the EZ-Track to this transitional grade. Otherwise, you’ll have to live with a kinked transition, if it could be called a transition at all.

[#ditto]

Just make sure that you don’t have two pieces of track joining right on the point where it transitions. EZ-Track is all I use on my layout and is all I’ve been using for many years now.

I switched to flex track when I made my incline. It’s not difficult. You just connect the track with connectors and fill in the height difference.

'EZ Track and other rigid base track is not intended for ‘easments’ or other tricky configurations. That’s why it’s called 'EZ TRACK.

To do requires modifications that permenently disfigures the track - and automatically voids all warranties. I think I would try any modifications with cutting flextrack-on thin wood and cork first.

A 3" incline takes 8’ (not including easments) to be 3%. What are your skill levels? or ‘tolerance’ level to mishaps? - cars uncoupling, rolling off the board, etc?

AVOID angles! Do you have 11-12 feet to get there?