I am still new to the Hobby … so this question may be a dead horse , I am working on my N scale layout using EZ track , I am using atlas bridges because I can not find any EZ track bridges … I know KATO has bridges for thier system and they have some nice larger bridges … The Atlas I have are working with the EZ track… But I was looking for any EZ track bridges …
(Note) only found the black elevated piers that snap onto the track…
I am not really sure about the EZ track bridges. One option you might consider is using the Kato bridges, with a piece of snap track between the two.
This will help you in the long run. USE THE KATO UNITRACK!! It is much better quality and will last A LOT LONGER!! If you are using EZ track beecause of money issues, that is okay.
here is the Kato Unitrack link
Honestly, I would spring for a 3’ section of flextrack and place it over the bridge. In one case, the Warren Truss bridge that I used made by Atlas, there were two rails included in the kit. But you will have to make sure your approaches to the bridger are at grade with the rails on the bridge, so figure out how you are going to ramp up or down, depending on what you use. You can see that this is part of the consideration and adjustment that you must take into account when/while you are installing the bridge and its supporting structure. It all has to match up!
Right, I am using a Warren truss ,I was just hoping EZ track may have something ,
I am knee deep in EZ track so I guess I need make the best of it … I was hoping they be coming out with some additional bridges…
I’m not as familiar with the N version, but if the track code / heights are the same you should be able to use them together. You may need to trim the tabs off the ends of the EZ track sections or make a few adjustments but it be doable.
I’m with Crandell on this one. This is what I did with my Roco bridge(which by the way looks exactly like the Atlas). Every spot when something is going between different sub roadbed material should be travelled on an interrupted piece of track. Basically putting rail joints on the joint between the bridge and the other part of the layout creates a potential problem spot.
Magnus
I have had a small issues with derailment going from EZ track to the Atlas bridges …One reason I have not completed my track plan so none of the track is glued down …I think I will try the one piece of atlas track and then try to blend the roadbed between the bridge and the EZ track…Any Ideas out there…
you may want to try asking in the Bachman fourm my experance with ez track i get more help with that on bachmans site… but over all MRM members are by far greater help in most areas my guess is most here dont use snap track systems as there not nearly real looking… i use ez track in HO i just built my own bridges from scratch… just a thought for you… hobojim
Agree with the flextrack, however instead of a standard tie flex, check into Micro Engineering’s bridge flex track. The track has a more prototypical look w/ the thick, close spaced bridge ties. Since you need to set the height of the abutments and any piers the added thickness of the track is insignificant. Just set the heights to match the railhead. Slight mods may be needed on the joiners as ME’s rail profile is generally a bit different than other makes. I work in HO, but the same should be true in N scale.
ME doesn’t have a website as yet, you can call them directly if you desire.
Micro Engineering, 1120 Eagle Rd., Fenton, MO.63026 Tel: (636) 349-1112
They offer excellent service and products.
I’m not familiar with N scale products as I model in HO, but I know in Ho you can get “transition” tracks that allow you to connect standard sectional/flextrack to the EZ track, with road bed attached, using standard rail joiners. In HO, they are about 3 inches long, have the EX track connection on one end, and standard rails on the other with clearance space for a joiner. You will have to “build up” the road bed under the standard track to match rail head grade level, but since your abutting to a bridge, that should be very simple.
Steve, sorry did not catch who makes the transition track , Atlas?
thanks Pat
I have to apologize. I was assuming that Bachmann would have a “transition” track based on the fact that Life-Like has one for their Power-Loc brand roadbeded track. I checked all over Bachmann’s web site, and even old Walthers catalogs, and I was mistaken about them being available. Take a look at the Life-Like HO Power-Loc brand though, for an example of what I’m going to describe below.
I felt bad for inadvertantly misleading you, so I did some research. Maybe this would work for you without too much hassle.
I noticed that the Bachmann brand has a semi-flush end joint, with the little “finger” sticking out from below, to connect to the next section of plastic roadbed. It seems, however, the rails still seem to connect with standard looking rail joiners for electrical continuity. What I think may work for you, without having a piece in hand, is to use a short (2 inch-ish) section to make your own transitions. You will need to remove the rail joiner, then carefully saw off the Plastic roadbed “finger” that protrudes from the plastic roadbed with a very fine toothed, very thin blade saw (like an Atlas track saw). Once that is removed, you should be able to join a piece of sectional track by way of standard rail joiners. Note; you may need to file the rail heads to make the profile exactly flush, and you may need to experiment with Joiner types(bachmann, atlas, etc.) If you’ve looked at the Life-Like Power-Loc brand “transition”, they call it a “Power-Link Adapter”, you will see that because of the way that brand “locks” together, there is no provision for rail joiners, and the end profile is not straight across, thus the need for the “transition” piece. On the “transition” piece, you can see how they remove a bit of plastic under the standard end of the rails to “clear” a rail joiner. As a last resort, you may need to make these “clearance” slots in your EZ track.
Lik