If you have enough moisture (or humidity) for this to be a problem, wouldn’t you need to seal both sides?
Rick
I am remembering right that you build on homasote? I would guess that would resist the kind of damage I’m talking about much better than foam. Or do you use foam as well? Just curious.
Kevin -
What product is the stone wall?
The stone wall is a “peel-and-stick” flexible by Chooch. It is not made any longer.
The peel and stick did not work at all, and I had to take it out and reglue it with several clamps to keep it in place.
In the end, the edges all kept trying to curl up no matter what I did. I just hid the problems with a lot of shrubbery.
The end result was OK
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
I would not suggest this product. The headaches were not worth it.
-Kevin
Never saw the question but will answer now as I just ran across this thread. I run my layout on 2" foam only over 1x4 framing. Layout has been finished almost a year now and no issues. In fact the only two issues I had before were my fault and this was years ago now, one was I shorted the layout during the building stage (left a tool on some track) and this made me a few repairs to the trackwork in one area. The other was not getting the radius right in two spots, new equipment found these for me, if I had to do again I would do one notch above whatever I desided on like 18" radius would be 19" etc. Also of note the sheen I picked for the facia was perfect (eggshell).
Chooch still offers flexible walls; I got the Steel Sea Wall back in the fall and it is still availble as well as some other patterns. Are you saying that the stone pattern you have is not available or that they have changed the “peel and stick” adhesive?
I found some older threads after I got the walls that discussed they problems with getting them to stick. [sigh] I haven’t installed mine yet but have been thinking about how to do it as I won’t have the option of hiding problems with foliage. I asked about your scene because in the construction picture it looked higher than the 3.5" of the Chooch walls.
i ran my fascia before scenery gave me the opportunity to run the scenery right to the edge of the fascia, which i left maybe 3/8 inch higher than the layout
OK, I might have heard wrong about this. I was under the impression that Chooch had gone out of business.
Their website and official eBay store are gone, or at least I cannot find them.
However, their products still have 48 items in stock at Model Train Stuff, and Walthers featured them in last month’s flyer.
This announcement was on this forum three years ago.
I guess we need some clarification.
-Kevin
Don’t forget about reach while figuring the fascia, lest it get in the way of subsequent alterations or repairs.
Likewise I have installed my fascia before the scenery. Knowing were rises in the terrain/landform above the rail head will be, I mostly start with having the top of my fascia 3’’ above the rail head or flat land surface. The bottom of the fascia sections are in line. The top edge will then be cut wavy or not to become the top of the highest knowned terrain along the aisle/walkway giving me 3’’ to nothing (were rails, parking lots and roads are close to the edge) in waste.
Sheet styrofoam/blue board will be layed in and shaved/hot wired down to the top of the fascia. I model a Northeastern railroad, not to much is flat except maybe rail yards and towns.The top of the fascia will be cut lower then the railhead as needed for lowland, hollows, gullys and waterways (variation in the contour like the Bear mentioned in his above post).
Where the right of way bores though the mountains (around the wall layout) then the fascia will go halfway up to the top of that mountain. I fill in scenery from the fascia up to the mountain top.The mountains are not too tall 18’’ to 24’’ above the rail head.