Hello,
I just wanted to know what people use for thier fascia. I know hardwood is avalible, but I am not sure what the material(usually painted green) that looks like cardboard is? I also would like to know your methods of cutting the board. I just found a tutorial on the net, but it doesn’t say the material they used.
Thanks,
Spit
I’ve used Medium density fibre board, cuts with a knife or saw, you MUST wear a face mask as the is very nasty. The stuff I used was 2mm thick. Thin ply is also good, cut with a jigsaw, it does tend to splinter, this can be partly cured by partly cutting through with a sharp utility knife first.
Hardboard can be painted, so can ply and MDF, but it does tend to get rough if knocked about.
A number of people, especially those that go in for fixed layouts use better quality woods to enable them to get a high quality finish with stains ans varnishes.
First thought : What is the environment like?
Second : How much will it all cost?
Third : can you get sufficient to cover all your needs (my supply of 2mm MDF is erratic to say the least)
I use (cheap) dark paneling for both the valence that extends 2 ft. down from the ceiling and the fascia along the RR edge. It’s pre-finished and the dark color tends to highlight the well-lit RR
I use the paper-board stuff with one coated side that they sell for shower enclosures and kitchen/bathroom backsplash panels. It’s like Masonite with a plastic veneer. It comes in 4x8 foot sheets, about a quarter-inch thick. I cut it with a power saw, but it makes a mess. You could cut it with a utility knife, but it would take a long time and be a lot of effort. It comes in a variety of decorator colors.
Thanks Guys -
glenn_rhb:
Very harsh…it is on my patio outside and I live in florida. I have chosen pressure treated wood for use out there.
As cheap as possible, without sacrificing too much quality.
I don’t know, depends on the material I use!
I’ve used a couple of different things for mine. One is a very thin (and flexible) board that some produce shippers use to ship produce with. I get mine free from work at a Wal-Mart distribution center. The other is sheets of masonite. I clamp it into place, then trace along the shape of the terrain, then cut it with a jigsaw. I attach it with flathead screws and grommets. I plan to paint mine a dark brown.
We’re using 1/8" masonite, which is actually closer to 3/16" or so. We backed it up with a 2" wide plywood, cut to the curves on the railroad (It pretty much looks like a piece of subroadbed). We used 1x2’s for the vertical supports where needed. This gives it support and keeps the curves we want, especially when operators brush up against it or lean against it. The top edge is cut to match the vertical scenery contours. The whole thing is glued together using brown wood glue for the wood and construction adhesive for the masonite. We used drywall screws on everything (We got them free), countersunk them, then we covered the screws with drywall mud and used paintable latex caulk in the corners and at some joints where there were small gaps.
We used the same method for both our fascia and the lighting valances. We matched the fascia and valance curves. Some sections are straight, most are curved with a few angled corners. It just depended on what we needed at any given spot.
It was all primed, then painted a nuetral gray color.
The picture below gives you some idea of the finished product.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/MIKE0659/DSC_1647.jpg
We’ve had some of this in place for over 10 (Maybe as much as 13) years now with no problems, you can’t tell the stuff that is 5 years old from the 10 year old stuff. The fascia/valances on the left of the picture are over 10 years old and the right side is maybe 5-6 years old. The railroad is in a basement with no ducts of its own for the heat and A/C. It is somewhat temperature controlled, but does fluctuate with the seasons and the number of people and number of lights on. The humidity is whatever the house humidity is.
We haven’t had any of the expansion/contraction problems others have mentioned and there has been no degradation due to humidity changes. The joints and where we have covered over the screws have held up wit
In a harsh enviornment, beware of wood or paper (Masonite). Temp is hard on them and humidity change is distructive. That is why many are going for styrene sheets. Some of the big box outlets have ceiling sheets, pebbeled on one side, but smooth on the other, for a reasonable price. Also extruded foam also works for backdrop, but gives an entirely different look.
The sky is the limit. We inherited a bunch of 3/32" cedar planed flat shakes, some 3’ in length, and they do nicely. They do need more handling and care so that they don’t split longitudinally, and each must be fastened into place, but when lined up and shaped, they look like a piece of fine furniture!
You could also use linoleum sheeting that is otherwise unneeded, and have either side of it facing outward. Doorskin is also a possiblity, and even wall panelling. If they can be had in sufficient quantities, and with little relative cost, fibreglass panelling would be very good. If there is an RV manufacturer somewhere nearby, they may spring for a couple of good-sized sheets for the right price.
I use 1/8" Masonite, but I would not use it outdoors. Where the track runs right along the edge of the benchwork, I use 1/8" clear acrylic sheet material that is 4" higher than the terrain. It prevents derailments plunging to the floor and little hands from picking up the cars or pushing them down the track. My exterior framework is 3/4" ash stained a rosewood color. The Masonite above it is sprayed a medium gray.
I use 1/4 inch AC plywood, primed and painted a medium green color:
I traced the scenery’s profile on the back, and cut the pieces with a saber saw. Then I countersunk the holes for the screwheads.
Nick