fascia panel

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Can anyone direct me to a web site or any book/ past MR issue with a detailed how-to on building a fascia-mounted panel to control my yard turnouts?

2

i was also wondering about that

i need to install some soon

3

Here is a neat sample I’ve seen.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/1200166453055249160SbmTOd
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/1163237081055249160NWUzSK
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/1163237279055249160uydYYY

Hopefully that gives you some ideas.

4

Hi There;
Here are some pics showing how I did it . The small white patches are velcro to hold my walk around throttles & the white card in pic #1 is a card car holder. I used striping tape .It makes it easy for guests to see which track they are on . The toggles with red backplates are cab A & cab B . The plain ones are turnout controls. Hope this helps.
Tom


5

I put a 1 1/2 inch strip on top of facia to hold toggles so they don’t get bumped as much. I printed a diagram on my computer in Word and printed it in color and put it between plexiglas in a drawer for another section. Both worked well in keeping the toggles out of the way. No pics yet of facia, just installing it to go with new DCC.

6

There was an article I believe it was last year or maybe the year before. I would have to go through the magazines to find which one. They showed how to build it and make it backlit if you wanted it to be. I will see if I can find it if someone doesnt beat me to that task.

7

I would recommend you recess the switches so that they aren’t inadvertently thrown when you lean against them. I use Atlas componently and I actually burned out a switch machine by leaning against the panel causing the power to flow continually to the switch machine. I am redoing my fascia panels to recesse these switches.

8

Ok I did a back issue search and found that the Marck 2004 issue had something on fascia. I didnt look through my magazines cause it would have taken way to long so I hope this helps.

9

MR issues with fascia’s in them are as follows March2004, June 2005 and March 2006

10

Here is a pic of my turnout panel I built. I preferred to mount mine relatively horizontal as I dont have to deal with narrow aisles in my garage.
1 by pine frame frame, sheet metal top painted with an appliance type enamel for durability, then auto pinstriping to show the rail layout then drilled and switches installed.
With 19 switches of course I have been putting off climbing under my layout to wire it.[:(]

Enjoy
Adam

11

BTW,

You probably noticed there was no picture.
How do I put a picture up in my message?

Thanks
Adam

12

Hey! I would like to know how to post photos as well. There have been several times when a picture would have saved a thousand words. Can anyone help us out? Then I can show how I have built the fascia panel and wired part of my layout.
Regards from Downunder.

13

digital camera
pics stored on computer
pics sent to web site like photobuket - you need to get a free membership
put URL in responce with paste and it will be there.

14

Either build or purchase a capcitor discharge unit. That will prevent burning out of the Atlas-style switch machines, even if the push button is held down for 24 hours. You can install the unit behind the control panel.

15

Thanks to MR & those great foums & to “gderem” for those teriff webshots!!!
MR & the guys who use the forums are life savers believe me.

eastwest

16

Thanks Art. I will give it a try.
Regards from Downunder.

17

I absolutely agree about the capacitor-discharge unit, at least if you are using standard twin-coil machines. For those not familiar with them, they operate on the principle of throwing a lot of amperage through the machine’s coils but only for a fraction of a second – enough to overcome spring inertia and change the machine’s alignment but not so much for so long that it can burn out the coils.

Whether these would work with something like a Turtle I don’t know, but I tend to doubt it.

You also should look into installing a diode matrix for route control, since you did indicate you were doing a yard. The diode matrix allows one pushbutton located on the track to be selected to throw several machines at once, all off of the capacitors, and align the route.

I prefer momentary pushbuttons to toggles – they are smaller and I find easier to use.

When I do my new one, I will also add duplicate signal lights to show signal aspects. This avoids straining one’s neck to view the signals actually on the layout.

For the panel itself, spray the undercolor of the track diagram, then use plastic or masking tape to lay out the track diagram. Overspray with the background color, remove the tape, drill for the pushbuttons, and you’re in business.

Re illumination, ask yourself first if such be necessary: For most model railroaders, night scenes are done under blue light, much like staging in a theater, and I found illumination unnecessary. Or consider stirring some zinc sulphide into the paint used for the track diagram – it is phosphorescent and usually can be seen in most RR rooms, making illumination unnecessary. It also is possible to obtain lighted pushbuttons, which (with enough of them) will illuminate the board.

For the panels themselves, I salvaged a pair of metal bookshelves which were going to be thrown away and will use them. With a metal panel, be certain that the pushbuttons are not grounded to their casings, since th

18

i think i’ll stick to hand throwns for now

19

Here’s mine from the front and inside. I printed the panel using 8.5" x 11" label paper. Run it through the printer, peel off the backing, stick to hardboard. Then drill out the switch and LED holes.