Fast Track Crossings

Has anyone here have had any experience building a Fast Track Crossing with a code 83 rail crossing a code 70 rail? I’d like to hear about your experience.

Tom Makofski

NorthEastern Wisconsin Free-mo

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tmak@new.rr.com

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updated 2/15/07

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Why not build the crossing with Code 83 and make the transition aftwerwards?

[#ditto]

When two prototype tracks cross, the crossing is built with a single weight and size of rail - the larger of the two in use (or, sometimes, even larger.)

An example would be industrial track on a Class 1 (115# rail) crossed by a light rail line (90# rail) on private right-of-way (not in the street.) The diamond would be either 115# rail or something heavier. The frogs are manganese steel castings and aren’t adaptable to different rail heights. Also, if the rail bases aren’t at the same level the shims and tie plates on the tie tops could get very messy. It’s a lot simpler (and less expensive in the long run) to increase the rail weight (size) on the more lightly built line for a few rail lengths.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

This is the area that I am modeling:

http://www.pbase.com/tmak2654952/the_menasha_canal_module

The green track will be code 83 and I want to use code 70 and/or 55 on the rest.

So you then you guys feel I should build the crossings with code 83 and do the transition on either side of the crossings.

NorthEastern Wisconsin Free-mo

Total Membership of 3 and Growing!

tmak@new.rr.com

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/newifreemo/?yguid=183720262

North Eastern Wisconsin Free-mo Group

http://www.pbase.com/tmak2654952/the_menasha_canal_module

updated 9/19/07

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This makes sense since the crossings take a real beating, and the heavier Class 1 stuff will soon destroy unmatched rails. So, from an engineering standpoint, overbuild for the lesser railroad, but stay within specs for the heavier user. It just makes sense to make the crossing from matched stock, and then slip down to your lesser scale over a few inches with the correct transition rails. Or, start shimming under the lower stock a few inches away so that the railheads meet precisely…both are doable.