Hi guys,
I would appreciate any comments you guys have on the turn-out laying tools known as Fast Tracks (http://www.handlaidtrack.com/)
I guess I’m having a hard time getting past the start-up cost (nearly $200) but, heck just a time saver puzzle takes six turnouts which would be at least $90.
I guess I’m decided to go ahead and do it, I just want a couple user reviews.
Thanks
To get a whole day’s worth of reading (or more) on the subject, just enter fast tracks jigs in the search block below. Every possible pro, con and ??? about using, using alternatives or not using jigs at all.
I have been handlaying my own turnouts since long before there was any such thing as a Fast Tracks jig, and don’t consider the process especially complex or arcane. Two three point track gauges, an NMRA gauge, a big file, spiking pliers (long nose w/slots cut in them) and a hefty soldering tool, and you’re all set. (Of course, you will also need rail, ties and spikes…)
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand-laid specialwork)
If you can be shown how to make your own turnouts, spend the time. If you can’t practicably do that, Fast Tracks turnouts are excellent, but pricey for quantities less than about 8-10 turnouts per jig. If you anticipate building 10 or more turnouts with the jig, plus having to spend some additional money for extra supplies (your kit from Fastracks will permit 6 turnouts if my experience is still current), you will find it quite competitive, and not at all comparable…the Fast Tracks turnouts are far superior to anything you can buy IMO.
TwistTies could also be a good alternative. They are basically flexible (and they aren’t lying!!!) tie strips that come in sizes that vary depending on scale and gauge. They come with or without pre drilled spike holes. Personally, while I haven’t had a chance to try them, I think they may be a good medium toward learning to hand laying turnouts all on your own.
Another way could be Joe Fugate’s.
But - like said - you can do it all by yourself. Here’s my How To .
Wolfgang
You do good work! I have to say tho, I really am satisfied with Fastracks jigs. After building 9 turnouts (about $9.00 each) I ordered more rail and now they cost maybe four bucks, haven’t figured it out. They work flawlessly!!! I would use the jigs if you need more than 10 or so turnouts, after the first few it takes me an hour to build em. I will be 74 come Febuary, like to get it done before I croak.
When I was a kid I had an oval running on DC, no blocks no nothing. I few monthes ago I read about DCC and it cought my interest, got hooked again.
Was alway’s a radio, TV and computer/networking nut and had businesses in all of em. Was a Teamster for 22 years and an Operating Engineer for 22 years. Was amazed at how much waight you could move with a 65 ton loco on the tunnel jobs, like 3 30cy concrete mixer cars for a total of 90cy (cubic yards). Thats 9-10 trucks worth. Not much rolling resistence on steel rails. I believe CSX’s TV commercial when they say they can move a ton of fraight 430 miles on a gallon of fuel. Had a lot of fun working
Joe has some good tips like you do.
Jules
I love them.
Last week I mass produced a lot of them. I got it down to 18 minutes from raw rail to finished turnout(except the wooden ties that I ad when the turnout is on the layout) when producing in batches of ten. The work flawless and are very cheap if you stay away from the twisties.
So they are very cheap and fast while still very accurate. What is not to love.
Magnus
thanks to all.
As far as “how many turnouts are yo going to make”
I think I’ll be ok in that category.
thanks again
Ditto^
Have you seen these?
http://www.proto87.com/
anyone know if there are templates included in CadRail for these?
3D Plan It has a library…
Waxon,
If you are only needing a few turnouts but don’t want to spend the time/money on the FT jigs, you can buy them fully assembled, ties painted, and the frog wired on eBay for $25 ea. If you’re interested, drop me a PM and I’ll give you a direct link.
Tom
Actually, I already found that by searching for Fast Tracks on Ebay in the thought/hope that there might be second-hand jigs for sale.
I figure I might buy the jig for like #6 turnouts (which I would end up needing a lot of) then buy one-offs like the few curved turnouts I might need pre-made off Ebay as you describe.
thanks
After you have built a few turnouts using the jigs, you will be quite capable of building turnouts without jigs for the onsies and twosies.
just a thought
Fred W
FastTracks products are a good investment. They enable you to make a turnout quickly and easily, that is better than anything commercially offered as a prefabricated turnout.
Sure, the upfront cost is there, but good tools cost money. The results are directly related to the quality of your tools.
Even if you want to hand-lay turnouts without using the jigs, you still need some good tools, like files and saws, as well as a good soldering iron. Plus gauges to keep everything in spec.
The jigs and related tools just make it easier. They also reduce frustration and make better use of your time, which is the most valuable part of the equation.
In my opinion Fred and Betamax have it nailed. The jigs can give you the confidence and understanding to lay any turnout you want by first producing using the jigs. For any more than 15 or so turnouts, they are a good deal, in my mind.
You can also get frog tools like this–>
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/frog-helper-for-4-5-and-6-and-micro-engineering-7083-rail-p-3730.php
One frog tool does #4 5 and #6. I think the point filing tool to match what ever turnout you want to build would be usefull. In that case it seems to me if you use the laser cut ties for that # turnout along with the tools you could handlay a turnout or two. If you remove the twist out ties and replace them with PC ties you could get it real close with some track guages. Or, use the printable turnouts to spike the rail down, again using track guages.
The most criticle parts are the frog and points it seems to me. A long frog point to prevent wheel drop I’ve found is real important. The new “Stock Aid” tool will except different size rail also. I use a belt sander but a bench grinder before that. The new tool is cheaper, I do find the Delta sander handy tho.
In other words you should be able to build different size turnouts with a few tools without the jigs thenselves. A bit more work but I think it’s possible. Have not done so myself tho.
There is more than one school of thought regarding wheel drop at frogs.
Fast Tracks has a video on the site that presents the relationship between track gauge and flangeway width and other critical dimensions in building a turnout - well worth watching even if you arrive at a different conclusion and/or don’t use Fast Tracks products. The NMRA site points out that wheel tread width should be twice the flangeway width to avoid wheel drop. And that is the kicker in HO.
If you choose the narrower and better looking code 88 wheels, you will not meet the 2x flangeway width requirement if you allow maximum NMRA width flangeways (typical and Fast Tracks practice).
To make the frog point as long and as sharp as possible implies widening the track gauge (within tolerances), which in turn implies wider flangeways (0.050") to keep the check gauge correct. Turnouts built this way tend to have wheel drop issues with code 88 wheels, but will work very nicely with code 110 wheels (standard NMRA HO).
HOn3 modelers and those pushing realism prefer the narrower wheel’s appearance. To avoid wheel drop at frogs a different solution is employed. The track gauge is kept to minimum through the turnout, which in turn narrows the flangeway to 0.040". Which in turn is within spec for a code 88 wheel. Disadvantages are that a slighty higher minimum radius is often needed due to