Now that I have considered 1x4’s for benchwork instead of 2x4’s another question has come up. I see in the four books for benchwork that most use the plated wood screws to attach the 1x4 lumber together and carriage bolts mostly for attaching 2x4 legs to the 1x4’s. Is this the norm for wood screws. Is there a better one to use. I will use carriage bolts for attaching the legs and probably drywall screws for other things but need something that will hold permantly.
My understanding is that drywall screws are not quite as strong as regular wood screws of similar size. But sine I build model railroad bench work, not a gym set for kids, drywall screws have bee very satisfactory for me. The core of my bench work is about five years old and is still every bit as solid as the day it was built. Also, I did not use any glue so that I can rearrange anything should the need arise without destroying a joint.
I use deck screws, not drywall screws, they are stronger. Also, drill pilot holes.
–Randy
Good idea. Just make sure your screw heads are still accessible after everything is assembled. Otherwise, it might as well be glued down!
Andy
Drywall screws are brittle and the head will snap off. Look at the big box store (home depot) for deck screws or construction screws. These may have hex or square drive heads, I’ve used both.
Wayne
I use plated wood screws with Robertson heads in lengths from 1/2" - 4". I mostly use 1.25 and 1.75" ones.
I’m not a big fan of drywall screws. I use regular steel wood screws, which are plenty strong enough for building benchwork. Lubricate the threads with soap or beeswax, and drill pilot holes. Now, I confess that I have 2 cordless drills, so one has the drill bit in it and the other has the driver head, so I don’t waste time switching from drill to driver, just set one down and grab the other. If portability (or potential disassembly) is a concern, use carriage bolts, with wing nuts if you really will be pulling it apart frequently.
Drywall screws are more brittle than deck screws. With the power of drill-drivers these days, they can be snapped off. However, they’re still plenty strong enough for benchwork applications, so if you didn’t use deck screws, things are still fine so long as you didn’t break them off driving them.
I’ve got a bad shoulder and back. The square-drive heads are great, as you don’t need to apply so much downward pressure, just keep the bit seated in the head.
While you can drive a screw without a pilot hole, you generally want to drill the hole first, then drive. Otherwise, you’ll end up with lots of splitting.
If you have 2 cordless drills CT’s method works or use one of the Flip countersink sets from Stanley, Dewalt, Makita etc
The time it would take to grab the other drill, you can flip the countersink to driver bit whether #2 phillips or as I use a square bit for the far superior hardened/ plated Robertson drive screws. Replacement bits/ countersinks are available in #6,8,10 and 12. These replacements are all interchangable between all Brands. Sure beats the “old days” of using 2 or even 3 corded drills for all the cabinetry/ woodwork I’ve done. Only time you would need another drill or change out a bit is if a clearance hole is needed, this is generally only needed when working w/ hardwood.
I have to agree with everything that CT wrote, and I’d add: While my layout was not designed for portability, it was designed to be taken apart, should the need arise. ALL of my modules are 24x48", so I made a template of the end pieces. When the next module was constructed, the template was clamped in place, and holes were drilled for wiring and dowels. The dowels ensured alignment when the modules were bolted back together.
Hi!
IMHO, the greatest boon to building layouts has been the advent of the cordless drills and sheetrock screws! For my last two layouts (HO 15x11, 2 level) built in 1994 and 2008, I exclusively worked with coarse thread sheet rock screws. There wasn’t one nail in the entire layout. Not only have the screws never loosened, but when it was time to dismantle the previous layout, the sheetrock screws made it super easy - and left a lot of lumber reusable.
On the building of the last layout, I had two 12 v DeWalt cordless drills going - one with a pilot hole drillset, and the other with a screw bit. It was a joy to put that layout together. Sheetrock screws come in regular and coarse threads (I prefer coarse), and in lengths up to 4 inches. IMHO, they are significantly better to work with than regular wood screws. Oh, no matter what screw you use, a pilot hole will make a major difference in the result.
ENJOY!
Many will use the DW screws exclusively and never, ever have an issue. I still use them regularly for work. As mentioned there are coarse and fine thread. Lately the coarse threaded screws can have weak shank probably from the extrusion and the head can snap off. Remember building benchwork we are using soft materials, pine, plywood etc and some don’t even find it nec to pilot for a screw. I’m a professional woodworker and have switched to Robertson “square drive” years ago (using the Kregg screws) only out of conveinence as I work w/ a considerable amount of hardwood in cabinetry. Regardless of what screw you use, for our purposes they should be fine.
I have not had a practical problem with the drywall screws I used on my benchwork (1x4 framing, 2x2 legs, plywood tops) but I have used enough screws that presumably no one screw is under considerable tension. And my cordless screwdriver has good but not awesome torque.
At the bottom of the legs I have T nuts and carraige bolts to level the table.
Holding the “domino” pieces together, I purchased threaded rod stock, cut it to length, and fasten the tables together with wing nuts. Two pieces of rod stock with appropriate washers and wing nuts do the trick and it is easy to change my mind.
Dave Nelson
i never had a problem with drywall screws snapping off but perhaps things have changed since i bought mine. i will offer one piece of advice regardless of what type of screw you use. exposed tips that go clear through the wood can be dangerous. if you reach under the layout blindly, you can puncture yourself or rip your hand open. this is especially nasty for us old folks who take blood thinner medications.
i suggest you cover any exposed screw tips with a short piece of vacuum or windshield wiper hose available at any place that sells auto parts.
charlie
Hi again!
Charlie9 brings up a Good Point (pun intended). When attaching “one bys” together, there would often be a point sticking out the other side. As drywall screws are somewhat brittle, a large nipper or wire cutter will snap those points right off.
I’ve used drywall screws quite a bit with no problem Nearly all cordless drills available today have a variable torque setting. If that is adjusted appropriately, I’ve never snapped off a screw head. I do drill pilot holes in most locations and especially into end grain.
Bogp40 – nice little gadget, but honestly, I’ll race you any day, you using your gizmo and me swapping drills. Plus I can swap drills one handed while holding my work with the other. [ :D] Just think of John Henry and the steam drill!
I have used cheap drywall screws for some years. I set the electric drill tension adjustment to prevent sheering off the screw head.
Rich
I agree completely with CTValley. I used the same screws on my layout, and used carriage bolts on my legs, as I wanted the layout to be portable, and in case of moving one day…
Ahhh, No cheating… can only drill w/ just one hand, not both…
Actually I’ll use both the drill/ driver w/ the “gizmo” and the impact together. The “flip” countersink is great especially if in a percarious position or tight spot. Instead of having to (crap where did that drill go, or damm just stepped on the bit-“snap”) just flip the bit and shoot…Doesn’t seem like too long ago, I would have 3 Corded drills working while installing cabinets. man you can end up w/ a twisted mess. Technology in tools now has really got us spoiled.