I ordered 8 straight and 16 curved Fastrack Pieces, to see what it was like from Charles Ro Supply. It is wonderful. It is much more versitile and easier to use than my old 0-27 tubular track.
I highly recomennded it. Also, a CW-80 from Gryziboski’s was ordered to, and it is just as good. The two go great togeather and I highly recommend both of them.
Now, all I need is the new ZW with powerhouses, then I will be set to build a great layout.
I too have a layout with FasTrack - a considerable amount in fact. Anyway, your enthusiasm is refreshing. My hope is that your Post won’t soon be “attacked” by the naysayers “lurkiing” in the shadows, waiting to “pounce”! [swg]
I too have a CW-80, and it is operating just fine. Again, there have been many reports (and I don’t doubt for a second any of the valiidity of 'em) of these transformers causing major “Excedrin” headaches.
So, in this framework of “postiive/negative” let me chime in with this thought:
The Lionel 0-27 track of my childhood (1940s) is still “alive and well” into the 21st Century. One can only wonder if the FasTrack of today will have that kind of longevity!
steel rails: I’m a big user of Fastrack also. However my biggest complaint is the sound when it’s mounted on wood. Even with a cork roadbed underneath it’s still noisy. I’m looking into using other materials this Christmas for my layout.
I too bought some. I’m setting up a figure 8. I wanted to get two switches (I know-turnouts) and cross from one side of the figure eight to the other.
If I measured right I have a gap of 50 3/4 inches of straight to cover which makes it 3/4 of an inch short and Fastrack doesn’t “Fudge” very well.
Has anyone cut and joined Fastrack? I figured to cut a 10" down to 5 3/4" then with a 5" straight and two 10" pieces and the two switches (10" each) it should come out to span the gap without a “kink.”
I’ve never cut Fastrack myself, but there was a how-to article in either CTT or its competitor. Basically, you make two cuts, the scrap being taken out of the middle and rejoin both end sections using plastic strips on the underside to bond the two sections together and then run connecting wires between the two glued halves.
I think it was Jim Barret in the “other” mag that showed how to cut it down like Terry described above. There are little nubs about 3/8" long spaced along the roadbed that the tubular rails rest on. IMO the best (not easiest) way to cut it down is to remove the rails first by bending up the tabs on the underside of the track and “pushing” the rail up away from the roadbed, careful not to bend the rail. Cut a section out of the middle of the track to get the desired length of track then glue the roadbed back together. Then cut the rails so that the joint lines up on top of one the nubs so the rails won’t deflect. A little careful planning is needed here so that the tabs on the rails align with the slots in the roadbed. The rail joints can even be staggered so as to not fall on the roadbed joint. Puhe rails back down on to the roadbed, connect a jumper wire to one tab on either side of the cut rails to electrically connect them back together again. Puhe tabs back down and you’re done.
I’ll stop short of describing it as “wonderful,” but I am using FasTrack for my Christmas layout this year and I really like the stuff. Far better than what I expected it to be prior to actually making a layout with it. Of the two available systems with built-in roadbed, I do prefer the FasTrack.
My FasTrack layout is on tables with a covering of marine deck carpeting (great stuff). Shortly, that will be overlayed with “snow” cloth of some sort (probably from Wally World) to give it a winter look. I have not found the sound/noise of FasTrack to be at all objectionable. I’m running a log train headed by a K-Line Porter locomotive this evening (about three feet from where I’m sitting), and all I really hear is a gentle click-click as wheels pass over the rail joints.
I have Fastrack and love it also. The switches are great too. They work real smooth and my engines cross them like they were not even there. Keep on training!
In my own humble opinion, I think FasTrack will take people buying starter sets into full-blown layouts more than any train item ever invented. I also think the CW-80 transformer is just fine for smallish layouts. Any “new people” reading this…go for it ! I know that many “small” layouts featured in the “O” magazines show 4 ZW’s lined-up, but I think this is more of a “ego trip” than an actual need.
I’ve got it for a permanent layout running two train sets and it’s great. I’ve got all my old tube rail in a box. It always gave me fits with connection issues and the fastrack never does. Like posted before, there are various “small” pieces that you can buy that will make up the exact size you need, I used them on my layout and it worked fine. One day I’ll figure out how to post some pictures of my layout for all to see. It’s nearing completion.
I think FasTrack is wonderful as well. It has brought a whole new level of realism and ease of operation to starter sets. Hopefully the people who buy those starter sets will continue on in the hobby, based in part on the positive experience of using FasTrack.
I have to say, I was annoyed when I saw that artical. For crying out loud, the track comes in 5 different lengths, 5 curve diam’s, as well as partial curves! I doubt if many people are using FasTrack for LARGE/complex layouts, so why make this look more complex for “new” people than need be?
By the way Houdy, your layout looks great. I think Lionel is “missing the boat” by not showing actual FasTrack layouts in the catalog. Joe
Your layout does look great. And to think it was all from a train set last Christmas? You didn’t waste any time! Very nice layout, and very inspiring. I started with a starter set last Christmas as well and my layout, although started, is no where near your point of completion.