I like to use Lionel 153 block signals, 151 semaphores, 450 signal bridges and the likes, but when I switched from tubular track and O-22 switches to Fastrack, these items no longer worked the way they used to. I used to be able to wire the signals with the O-22 switches to show for switch direction, and it was easy, just run some wire from the switch posts to the signal and your all set. Well, Fastrack didn’t work out like that. When you try to run the wires from the “thru” and the “out” to the block signal, all that would happen is the light would blink on the signal, not stay lit. I tried to find info about this on the different train forums, but found few answers. So I decided to take a switch apart and see what I could do to get my signals to work the way I wanted them to with Fastrack switches.
As soon as I took off the back switch cover, I saw the two black micro switches that detected which way the switch was thrown and figured this was going to be the best way to activate the block signals. In the pictures below I found out which wire off of the micro switch sent the signal to the control board to tell it which way the switch was thrown. The red wire is the one. I then hooked up some leads to these and connected them to my 153 block signal and a voltmeter. The center post off the block signal was connect to the Common of the transformer. I turned on the power and tested it out. Sure enough, it worked flawless(first time in my life that has ever happened!!!)
So what I plan to do is connect a wire off each micro switch red wire and run that out of the switch. So I will have two extra wires coming out of the switch. These two wires will then let my Fastrack switch work the way my old O-22 switches used to. I haven’t tested it much more than the block signals, but maybe these new outputs
Dave,
If this works it will solve a problem I have been having with my drawf signals. The way I get around it now is really complicated and a pain to wire. I am going to give this a shot tonight and let you know how it goes.
Thanks
Bob N. will probally make a coment on this to another way but to me from what you say is the way and what I’m thinking is when you get that moent of power to the terminal ( that is because the power is only used to turn it not keep it) and because of the different electrics inside the way you did it is it. seems like a lot of work but thats the way it has to be I’m guessing
I use to set mine up (been years so I forget exactly how will have to refigure when I get around to doing my layout) to be green ( the block signal) and would turn to red (153C at this point) and then would return to green after the train cleared the area.
Dave,
Probably, you’ve just beaten Lionel to the punch for their next product, for one and all to purchase and enjoy, by adding the two extra wires.
Great idea.
Ralph
Dave…Thank you. MTH Realtrax switches are similiar when you take off the cover and I have taken the cover off more than once.
Dave,
I tried it out on my mainline dwarf signals last night and it worked great. That signal has four wires. I hooked red wire to the switched side and the green to the thru side and the two blacks to the common and it works perfectly. You know I tried to figure out how to do this a couple of years ago. I even asked Lionel and they said it could not done on the FasTrack switches. I had a work around using a 24V bulb but it took a lot of wiring and isolating but this is so much better. I just laid six switches down and was going to have to use my old method. Perfect timing.
If concerned with the rating of the micro’s why not use them to activate a relay, i.e. DZ-1000, to operate the signal. This way you also have both normally open and closed contacts.
I added a web page to describe the mod:
www.dmmrailroad.com/fastrackswitchmod
Those micro switches are typically not good for much amprage. If you want to use them for controlling block power, use them to control a relay that does the switching of the block power.
For what it is worth, the schematic for the Fastrack switches is available on the Lionel web site. Might be of some help.
Yeah, I tried to run a block off the switch. It sorta worked. I ran a Williams dual motored SW-2 and it worked OK until I turned it up quite a bit. It started to slow and sputter a bit. Switch survived, but Not going to do that again.