Hey all,
I am looking into buying a good steam switcher for my layout (I have almost all diesels). I model HO in the pacific NW. I have mainly UP, but GN, Milwaukee, NP and SP&S have thru traffic as well as possible interchanges. Any of you have a particular small steamie you like??? Just wondering… I would love pic’s. Thought this would be fun for all of us to see your favorite lil’ bugger!
Brian
P.S. Good slow speed and a good motor for DCC is a must…
Brian,
I just purchased one of the 2nd run (new and improved) Proto 2000 0-8-0 switchers last week for $90 and love it. (MSRP: $250) It was DC so I installed a Digitrax DH163L0 decoder in it and it really crawls! The detailing is just beautiful!
Click picture to enlarge
Brian, I don’t know if the Proto 2000 0-8-0s come in any of the schemes that you’ve mentioned. If they don’t, you might be able to find a undecorated one and decal it yourself.
Tom
P2k 0-6-0 with sound. Teriffic low speed, great detail, and great sound. I have three of them. Here is # 8 & # 9 (as re-badged):
Here is # 2608 - to be re-badged as BAH # 14:
Tom and Alan,
Love the Pic’s…hmmmmm this is gonna be a hard choice…
Brian
P.S. Alan, did you remove the decals, paint over or…???
I have one of the P2K 0-6-0 switchers. It is an excellent model in every respect except for one…it is light. It will pull seven or eight properly weighted cars without much difficulty on the level, so that probably places it well for the typical switching requirements on the typical layout. If you want it to do local industrial or spur shunting, leaving the yard limits for as much as 10 scale miles, and if there is a grade greater than 1.5%, you will quickly find its limits in traction.
Let me say again, though, that this little gem is one loco I would not give up. It is very highly detailed as plastic models go, and it really does run well, including over my handlaid and DCC-friendly, not-jumpered curved #10 turnout with a distance of about 2.5" between the gaps.
The herritage steam switchers are the best in my opinion. Well detailed and a quiet, smooth drive. Pictured is my 0-6-0 (CB&Q). I also have an 0-8-0 which is NP.
P2K 0-8-0. Second choice if my roads had used 0-6-0s would be P2K 0-6-0. The IHC 0-8-0 can be detailed up, and runs quite well.
For me, it’s the P2K 0-6-0 also. This was my first sound engine, and now I’m completely hooked. (WARNING: Sound is highly addictive. Before you know it, you’ll be taking your hash pipes, meth-making chemistry set and heroin needles to the pawnshop to get money for your sound loco habit.) Here’s mine:
These are available in two different tender types. I’ve got the higher-profile tender, but some of roadnames have a low-profile tender. Mine’s a GM&O.
The engine comes with a set of traction tires if you’re having trouble on grades or with heavy loads.
P2k, 0-8-0 (two,one with one without sound,DCC) great slow speed and look nice while doing it. Tops the field, friend has an 0-6-0 that is also great, worth the search. Jim
Either of the P2K USRA switchers are great engines. I’ve got a couple of each, and they perform flawlessly. Another good option if you have space issues is the Bachmann Spectrum 0-6-0T saddle tank switcher.
My favorite switcher is my OLD Alco brass model NYC B-11 0-6-0. It’s smaller than a USRA 0-6-0, and has more of antique look to it. Since it’s brass it hauls like mad, and crawls with a new gear tower and can motor. Similar engines can occasionally be found on Ebay for around the same price as a MSRP-marked P2K engine.
I tried to remove the lettering with alcohol (rubbing with a swab) and it also removed the black paint; so I just painted over the loco under the window and the sides of the tender (airbrush). The back of the tender and small numbers on the loco were just painted over using a brush.
My personal favorite is an oldie but a goodie. Mantua/Tyco marketed a side tank switcher in the 0-4-0T and 0-6-0T wheel arrangement. The boiler and tank are a single piece zamac casting giving it good weight, and it’s all on the drivers for good pulling power. I have a couple of each.
They periodically show up on Ebay, but watch out for the saddle tank version, it has a plastic boiler and not as good pulling power, but still fairly good.
Hello My favorite is an old roundhouse 0-6-0 with tender all metal.Found it on ebay.Iwas going to use for parts but it was in better shape then he said it was.With some tlc it runs great and pulls good to. I also have a mdc 0-6-0 with tender my dad got in 1945 when he was 15.It needs parts one day it will run. [:)] Frank
I like the idea of the 0-6-0T, but if I was modeling the Pacific Northwest and I could have only one engine as a switcher, I’d pick a Shay.
Gotta be the P2K 0-6-0 or 0-8-0. I am amazed at how smooth and detailed an engine mine is. - Nevin
Ray,
I see a picture of a B-11 0-6-0 in the Steam Power of the NYC System book. You don’t, by chance, have a picture of your ALCO one, do you? (Silly question, I know…[:D])
I really like the U-4as. It’s too bad that the Rivarossi ones weren’t better.
Tom
If you’re modeling the Northwest, you might want to consider the P2K USRA 0-8-0, which is almost dead on for a Northern Pacific G-1/2 class heavy switcher. They were numbered between 1170 and 1193.
I have heard that the newer P2K model is a vast improvement over the older one as far as solid pickup and tractive effort. They’re certainly handsome little beasts.
Tom
Actually, I’ve only got one photo of my B-11, and it’s partially hidden by some of my other steam:
I had the engine out over the weekend to show a friend, but didn’t think to take any more shots! But that’s OK; she’s due for a trip to the backshop to get redetailed and repainted into P&E 71.
As Ray mentions, the Spectrum 0-6-0T is a very good choice, smooth runner and very little $$. (see Trainworld)
For decoders, the wired version of the TCS M-1, Digitrax DZ123/143 and Lenz Gold Mini will result in superior performance.
My favorite steam switcher is a N&W Y5 2-8-8-2 - just the thing when you need a switcher with more than 150,000 lbs of tractive effort. [:)]
I’ve got one of those too. Mine has the blunt tender rather than the slope back, which is probably why I like it so much. However, it would have no business being in the Northwestern Pacific. I would say the NP Proto Heritage 0-8-0 would be the way to go (however the ones painted NP have no electrical pick up from the tender! ouch). An 0-6-0 would be my second choice.