I got these Athearn trains that I’ve been trying to run, and they’re all stock. I cleaned the wheels just the other day and now they’re all dirty again. I’ve read a lot of articles about people changing out the wheels for the upgrade, like nickle silver ones, so I’m like man, that must be why. My stuff ran hella good right after I cleaned it but now they’re all stuttery. I also heard stuff about putting in capacitors to make them run smoother too. I’m operating the trains outdoors, but they’re up on a deck and there’s a roof over them. That said it was really foggy the other night so maybe that had something to do with it. My impression was though that the nickel silver ones stay clean better, and are machined to a higher standard. Also if anyone can suggest any other upgrades I might want to make I’d really appreciate it. Thanks.
Nickle wheels definately stay cleaner than the steel ones on the older Athearns. They are actually the cleanest type of wheels you can get. Nickle track is the same way. It stays much cleaner than steel or brass track.
The wheels on your Athearn engines get dirty instantly? Have you checked to see if the track is dirty? If the track is dirty than you’ll wan’t to clean it. That should help.
Yeah all the track is really clean. The wheels like, they don’t look dirty, but after I cleaned them they were nice and shiny, and now they’re dull, so I think I’m definitely switching them out then. All my old Athearns seem to have the same wheels so I guess I can just get a fat pack. I have a GP-35, GP-38 (I think), and SD-4(something) from the early 90’s, and then a couple of C-44-9CWs or whatever from I think like 98.
Sometimes keeping track and wheels clean seems like a never-ending project. Both need to be clean for reliable operation. It sounds as if your track may have some accumulated dirt on it that the wheels are picking up. You get the wheels clean and they just pick up more dirt, even though the track looks clean.
I would try cleaning the track, perhaps with Goo Gone, then clean again with a soft cloth slightly dampened, then burnish with a track cleaner block like Bright Boy. You might even consider using a product like Rail Zip after cleaning. I have also heard of modelers using a metal polish on their rails and they claim it drastically reduces the amount of cleaning they have to do. I haven’t tried it yet, so I can’t vouch for the procedure.
Then clean the loco wheels with cleaner, making sure that you remove any residue left from the cleaner.
This should get you going and keep you going for some time.
Another thought I had is if you have inadvertantly cleaned your loco wheels with an abrasive. It is possible to scratch the surface of the wheel treads which would cause the wheels to pick up dirt faster. In that case, replacing the wheelsets will be your best solution. I would try cleaning first, as it is easier and cheaper than replacing all your wheelsets.
Darrell, cleanly quiet…for now
Well, I’m pretty certain that the wheels are not just picking up dirt from the track, and the reason is that the wheels stayed clean for a few days after I cleaned them, and then I parked the locos in the yard for a couple days. Then when I came back nothing ran that well, and things didn’t improve upon running the track cleaning car. I think the air outdoors is probably affecting the steel somehow. Also I did clean them with an abrasive, so I guess I won’t do that again.
What’s happening is your wheels are oxidizing (sp?) from the moisture out side. My basement got real humid after it flooded and this happened to the wheels after it dried out all was better. My first suggstion is to bring your engines inside when you’re not running them and before each time you run your engines run a bright boy over the track. This so help out a lot.
Andrew
Won’t the silver oxidize less than the steel though?
BJ;
If you’re using steel track, (Bachmann E-Z?) and you’ve got it set up on the patio. During the night your rail oxidizes a bunch, that is it starts to rust! This is not a very good conductor and unless you’re gonna clean the track before every run, its just gonna get worse.
Replace the steel with nickel-silver rail, (its not really silver), and the track will stay clean better. I personally would recommend you use a good cleaner and a cloth, not a track cleaning car , and wipe the rail down good. Then because you’re outside, this may be a goos situation for using Wahl brand Hair clipper oil on the track. Place a few drops on a small piece of track, then wipe the track with the cloth. It will leave just enough in place to help cut down on the oxidation. Then you can replace the track one or two pieces at a time with nickel silver track.
Does this imply your track is outdoors? And I don’t see what sort of track do you have, looks like everyone is guessing. There are basically three types of rail that has been used in HO track: steel, straight brass, and nickle-silver?
Ouch[:(], that might clean really well but it also scratches the surface so they get dirtier much quicker from that point on. Same applies to the track.
I was wondering if maybe there is a different problem like sparking between the wheels and the rail. That causes pitting which acts like dirt.
Okay this is for clarification. I have nickel silver rails, and the locos have steel wheels. I realize now that it was really dumb to clean the wheels with a file, and also to clean some parts of the track with fine sandpaper. It’s just that the bright boy things don’t seem very effective to me and they got all these grooves worn in them from the rails. So it looks like the way to go is the silver wheels for the locos, somehow resurfacing the rails I’ve sanded, and getting some of that hair clipper oil.
Well the wheels on my Atlas,Atlas/Kato’Walthers,Genesis and my Athearn RTR gets just as dirty as my Athearn iron wheels.So,you’ll not be escaping dirty wheels just by using nickel sliver wheels…
It does not help having your trains outside…There are many factors that causes dirty track and wheels including plastic wheels on freight cars.
First you need to bring your trains inside and away from the weather before you start changing wheels and for better results go the extra step and add metal wheels to your cars.
PS.I use rthe stock Athearn wheels and I don’t have a major dirt problem.
What a pain… oh well, thats for the input everyone.
Indoor layouts and rolling stock seldom, even in relatively damp basements, seldom experience supersaturated atmospheres where the temperature of the room falls below the dew point of the air. When this occurs, the moisture condenses out onto virtually any horizontal surface. This dew acts as a magnet for any dust or dirt in the air. If you look at your layout only after you come home from work or a few hours after sunrise, that moisture has evaporated but left that dirt behind.
Unless you live in the desert Southwest where the night temperatures never go below the dew point, the layout should be covered with a waterproof dropcloth or tarpaulin. If the trains can be damaged when you place or remove these covers, they should be stored inside your hose between operating sessions.
If you are not sure that this condensation occurs, check a windshield on a car that is parked outside before sunrise.
Yeah it definitely occurs, and also I just ran my hand over the rails and now I have fat black lines on my hand, so I guess they were dirty. It’s not that bad cuz I prolly won’t use it that much, but then again it sucks cuz whenever I do I’ll hella have to clean it first, and eventually the main line will go all the way around my deck, which is really long, prolly at least 150 feet, and thats just one way.
You might want to try some stuff call LPS-1. It is like the Wahl clipper oil only it is designed to conduct electricity, and doesn’t get goopy like WD-40 or Amsoil MP. There is one fellow (with a really big layout) here in town who swears by it.
With as big of a track as it sounds like you (are going to) have, you might try different things in different sections and compare which works best for your specific environment.
You may want to read the article in September’s (?) MR on cleaning the hidden contacts inside Athearn locos, the one where the trucks meet the frame. You say they are a few years old and may be suffering from more than just dirty wheels and track.
RedGrey62
Is there any way to cover the layout, could help the moisture problem somewhat.
Bob K.
If you read my posts you would notice that I said I had them running really well after I cleaned the wheels, but thanks for the tip anyway. Maybe I’m just going to have to move it inside I guess. The only place it can go is on the ceiling. I’m thinking maybe I’ll just hang it 1 foot down. Then I’ll have a 7 foot and 8 foot ceiling depending on whether the train goes over your head and I can just sit on a ladder to run it.
Hmm, well, today I folded up a paper towel and ran it over the rails to see how much dirt it picked up, and there was a lot, but just out of curiosity I ran it over a section of track that I hadn’t run any trains on and it hardly got any dirt, which leads me to believe that yes, it is the dirty plastic wheels that I messing it up. I suppose I’ll clean those and also start switching them over to metal.