Hi All: Here’s a jig I made to ease the task of filing ties to fill in the missing ones when laying flex track. I just lay them in the groove I made in a board with my table saw, and file off the molded in spikes. Then I turn them over and file some more off until they’re just a snug fit under the rails. I hope someone can use this tip.
Great idea Grampy, now if I send you about 50 ties…[swg]
This is a good idea - I will give it a try.
Here is another solution that I have found to this problem - although its a bit more expensive: On my layout, I used a mix of Atlas and Shinohara flex track. The Shinohara flex track has thinner ties so its easier to slip them under joints between Atlas flex track.
Nice jig!
I just sand mine using a sanding block. A little messier, sometimes hard on the fingertips if you have a lot of ties to do, and not as accurate. I’ll definitely build one of these jigs.
Thanks!
I just use my Dremel and cut a small round notch where the rails sit. A flat tie won’t sit under the rail joiners without creating a slight bump in the track - it needs to be notched slightly to clear the extra thickness of the rail joiner.
Under just straight rail, this method would work quite well and definitely save the finger-tips !!!
Mark.
I cut the inside spike head on the left and the outside spike head on the right with an Xacto. Sand the bottom and then slide the tie under the rails. This way from the viewing side you can’t see any missing spike heads. I also use N scale rail joiners on HO cause they’re harder to see after paint, weathering and ballast.
Where are the Jig Images to be found? I tried looking at Photobucket but no luck.
Fr8nkc
Hi Fr8nkc: I removed them to make some room for newer photos, and there didn’t seem to be much interest in them.
I missed this thread until today…now I am sorry I did not see it before the photos were pulled.
Hi Kevin: I’ve reposted the photos.
Thanks very much for putting those back up! Now I see what you described. Good idea! Thanks again!
That’s a nifty idea. I just used my rail nipper to cut off the spikes and then a small flat file (about the width of the rail) to file a notch at each tie plate location. It worked great, but holding the tie while trying to file it, that’s another story.
–Randy
Hi Randy: Thanks for your reply. That was the problem I had, trying to hold them while filing. I was mainly concerned with the ties at the rail joiners, they had to be filed thinner to fit and not force the track into a hump.
Great idea Grampy. I’ll have to make one of those. I’m tired of sanding my finger tips off!
Bill