I acquired the Vollmer Neuffen Station plastic kit to represent the local RDG RR station, now long gone, on my 1950’s layout. The kit has enough of the architectural lines and details to be a pretty good likeness. I don’t want to apply the supplied Tudor-style timber to the facades. However, I have to fill in the holes that would accept the timber and then paint the model.
What kind of filler or putty should I use to fill in these holes? I want to minimize any sanding because the façade pieces have a grainy surface that I want to retain. Any advice is welcome.
I use Bondo autobody filler. Comes in a tube, which will last you a long time in HO scale. Just squeeze out a blob and apply with a toothpick. Doesn’t shrink much, if at all, and works as well as “model” putty for a LOT less money. With careful application, the need for sanding will be minimal.
Bondo will work, and so will auto spot putty, but temp and humidity can make those spots show up later. Stretch plastic sprue is not only the cheapest, but the best solution. Simply get a candle and grab some sprue. Now hold it over the flame, not too close. You don’t want to burn it, just warm it up so you can stretch it. Once you stretch it a bit you can set it aside. Once it’s cooled down you break it in half at the thinnest point and apply some glue to the pointy end. Now insert it from the front side of the wall and push it right through the hole you want to fill and let it dry. once its ready, cut it off with your xacto knife close to the surface and trim. Some light sanding may be required, depending on how good a of a trim job you do. You shouldn’t have to do much, if any. You now have a plastic patch thats the same color as the rest of the wall (read: needs little priming).
Philip gives some good advice on this. I used to shape the sprue, but the stretch method is a good one. I would like to add, that using an Xacto chisel will give better control w/o marring the wall surface. The chisel will also allow you to carve texture at the repair to match.
Squadron Green putty works very well to fill in holes. Sandable and paintable, and it doesn’t eat plastic. At least it didn’t when I filled in the horn mouting holes on the MDC RS-3 kit I’m workign on.
Now I need to go research that kit and see just how close to a Reading station it is, since I need those too!
Phil - The sprue stretch is a great idea - I never would have thought of that. I’m going to give it a try.
Randy - It’s the original RDG Queen Anne style passenger station at Pottsville, which was torn down around 1961. The Vollmer kit grabbed me as soon as I laid eyes on it. It will need some modification but I think I can make it work. I was lucky to find one at the Reading Expo show in December - I think it’s out of production.
Philip - Wow, does that sprue stretch thing work. What a great tip. After drying, I held the piece 2 ft in front of me and could not see the patch. Then I proceeded to cut my thumb with the xacto. I think that chisel blade might be a good idea. Thanks again.
I used to build custom model cars and I used that trick all the time. I knew that experience would come in handy one day. You’re welcome. I’m glad it worked. Now go get a band aid.