Hello,
At this point I only need to run 2 trains.
I have an MRC Sycro Sound System(Steam) that is DCC Compatible.
I’m looking at starting out cheap but not really crappy.
It appears that maybe Bachmann’s cheap DCC might not work with the MRC Sound System?
I have 2 Bachmann DCC ready Steam Locomotives, maybe I should just buy a MRC DCC decoders & Controller (to match the Syncro Sound), will this work with the Bachmann’s?
What are all the things I need to get the Loco’s up and running? (item #'s or links would be helpful)
cactus - I just went thru the DCC buying decision myself. I also did not want to break the bank (yet). I decided on the Digitrax Zephyr DCC system from Tony’s Train Exchange (a very reputable store). It will work with your MRC decoders (and ALL decoders for that matter). Here is a link to Tony’s:
I love my new Zephyr and for $159.00 it is not a bad price since it includes EVERYTHING you need to get started (including power supply). If your Bachmann engines already have decoders installed then the Zephyr is all you need to get up and running. If your locos do not have decoders, then you can buy any decoders and plug them into your locos and go. Good luck!
The Bachmann E-Z Command will allow and can handle 8 sound functions. What exactly is the MRC Syncro Sound system? Is it stand alone sound system that you run off of DC?
The best place to start is to read up on DCC. Go to Tony’s Train Exchange (http://www.tonystrains.com) and click on their 2. DCC For Beginners link. It’s a good resource for understanding what DCC is and what it can do. You can either read it online or download it onto your computer as a .pdf file, then print it out for your convenience.
Some folks here will automatically say negative things about the Bachmann E-Z Command. I had it for a year and it worked well for me. I knew ahead of time what it would do and not do so I was fine with it’s limitations. However, even though the E-Z Command is considered a “limited” DCC system, it could still do quite a bit. It’s strengths are that it’s inexpensive and simple to use. I could still run 3 locomotives at a time with the E-Z Command. Where it falls short is it’s inability to adjust CVs or configuration variables. Even so, it’s a great way to get into DCC without breaking the bank. I now use the NCE Power Cab.
cactusjawas, my advice for you is to read as much as you can and don’t be hasty about buying a DCC system until you’ve had a chance to read up on the topic and see some of the systems in action.
If you can, check out all the hand-held control units (“remotes” or “throttles.”) This is what will be in your hand when you’re running your trains, so it’s a good idea to have one that you’re comfortable with.
The good news is that all of the manufacturers are solid and reputable. You can’t really make a “bad” decision on which DCC system to buy. I would suggest that you think about your future needs, though. In the long run, it’s cheaper to buy a bit more than you need right now than it is to either buy a non-expandable starter system that you end up discarding, or to buy an expandable system and then purchase “add-ons.”
Sounds like (no pun intended) you could just run the MRC Syncro Sound using an old DC power pack. It shouldn’t need to be/shouldn’t be hooked up to either the track or the DCC system anyhow. Do you know how much current it draws?
cactus - the MRC Synchro Sound should work with any DCC system. It is only a soundbox. I recommend the Digitrax Zephyr as I said earlier because of it’s price, expandability, and capabilities. However, any DCC system will do.
I just changed over. What I learned (Similar to the others):
Read up first and know what the words mean.
Buy something that is familiar to the people who you talk with. I went with Digitrax because that is what all the people around here have.
Buy as much as you can because expanding costs extra. I now have radio and really wish I would have bought it to start with. An old DC person has no idea how nice DCC is.
Be not affraid, it is easier than anyone admitts to. It is also harder so be prepared to feel uneducated for a while.
To get up and running should take less than an hour if your DC works now. It can get complicated, but it does not have to be. I have learned to program CVs but I ran my trains long before I even knew what a CV was.
I have a Digitrax Empire Builder That was given to me. Since I am to broke to be able to afford to convert my very large roster of locomotives. I have decided to sell it.
It comes with a Loys Toys “Model Train Fuel Tank” main power supply for powering the booster. an older DT200 throttle that is Infrared Capable (Only the addition of Infrared Recievers tied into the “loconet” is neccicary) a series of wiring harnesses for a different number of locomotives, 11 decoders (4 MRC 7 Digitrax) And all the paperwork. Everything except the power supply is in its original package. Unopened in many cases.
My decicion to sell is based on the fact that I have over 100 locomotives to convert. I have a very nicely featured DC control system waiting to be put together. And the fact that when I am ready to convert to DCC, the technology to do so will be much cheaper,and will be much more advanced, leaving what I have now. so oudated it might no longer be compatible. (The DCC system I have is about 5 years old)
Email me if you are interested and we can haggle up a fair price.
I have the Bachmann DCC system and it’s been very good. If I remember I paid $89 for it and it came with a loco. It does have some limits. I have learned a little about what I want in the next system from it. Things like hand held controls and more sound functions are now on my list. For the money it has done exactly what I wanted it to do.
A DCC Decoder is essentially a miniature computer. Configuration Variables are computer algorithms. By going through the decoder’s programming and assigning a different value to each configuration variable, it allows you to fine tune the performance of your decoder, and therefor your locomotive down to quite exacting tolorences.
In laymens speak, Its all the fancy cool gismos, gadgets, whistles, and bells that DCC lets you have, and it allows you to tweak them.
But tweaking them takes a fair bit of time I might add.
Let me give you some CV examples, that should help you understand them as well.
Starting voltage determines how fast your loco starts up when you crank open the throttle. There’s a CV for setting that, and the bigger number you put in the CV, the faster the loco goes when you first crank open the throttle.
You set this CV too low and the loco will just sit there when you crank open the throttle, and you will have to turn up the throttle until finally you get the voltage high enough the loco will move.
Set this CV too high and the instant you crank open the throttle, the loco will take off like a jack rabbit. Ideally, you want to find a setting that will cause the loco to just begin moving at a crawl the instant you crank open the throttle.
There are lots of other CVs to control things like:
Top voltage (controls your loco’s top speed)
Mid voltage (controls how fast your loco is going at mid-throttle)
Acceleration delay / Deceleration delay (used to create momentum effects)
Headlight settings (front light on going forward, rear light when in reverse, special effects like Mars light, rotating beacon, strobe beacon, etc.)
And a whole host of other settings. But this should give you the idea.
The hardest part for me was learning the lingo. Hooking it up was easy., learning all the terms was, is, a challenge. Like my new cell phone, it has so many options I can’t make it do anything. With DCC I bought the books, bought the system, read the books and expermented. It works. I love it. I will learn some of the clever options in due time, but I have a canyon to build first.
here’s my take as a recent graduate from the armchair modeler brigade
some people will say buy an inexpensive DCC setup now , figure out how it works and then buy a better one when you have more of an idea how it works and what you need . that’s not a bad idea , but i don’t like it for 2 reasons . there are many starter sets on the market today , but let’s use the bachmann system and the digitrax zephyr as an example just for price comparison . the bachmann can be found for $60 or less , the digitrax for $160 .
problem 1 - why spend $60 on something you’ll probably replace in a year or two when you can buy the end result now ? you’ll end up paying $220 and getting the same product in the end , the resale value on used bachmanns is probably next to nothing . (of course you could give it to someone who is just starting out , that would be a pretty nice way of helping someone into the hobby)
problem 2 - differences in the way any two DCC systems work mean you’ll have to unlearn and relearn a lot of procedures to use your new unit when you get it . if you’d bought the better unit first you won’t need to
other thoughts …
the MRC dcc sound decoders are considered the low end in both decoder quality and sound quality . i bought 2 when they went on sale about 3 months before the Tsunamis became available , and i won’t be using them for anything other than experimental purposes . there’s my example of why one shouldn’t buy a $50 item when an $80 item is just around the corner . but i wanted to get started with dcc and sound and was too impatient to wait
Well I switched to DCC about a year ago. I Bought the Digitrax Super Empire Builder . Before I bought the system I had researched the many different systems for about 6 months. The best advice I can give you is to go buy the “Big Book of DCC” from Digitrax. I read this atleast once a day to find something. I have all my locos running Digitrax decoders and one BLI sound. the system is very overwhelming when you first look at it. And you hear things like,
“Changing your CV values alows more realistic operation. When using Back EMF and having your CV variables set for 128 step speed tables and CV3 and 4 set for momentum and breaking you can really get a great feel for running your trains prototypically.”
This gets very frustrating, I got so mad and frustrated some times I put it all back in the boxes and was ready to return it. Then I went to the LHS and spent $20 on the book I mentioned. It was like DCC for dummies. It starts with the basics and gets a complicated as you like. You will have thousands of questions like me I’m sure. If you would like you can e-mail me and I will help as much as possible. And you can even E-mail Digitrax with your questions. They have been very punctual with responses and helpful.
I bought the Empire builder because it had a handheld with it and I can walk around my layout and use it untethered like a VCR remote, the Zephyr is a stationary controller like a tech II style powerpack. You can buy additional hand throttles for the zephyr but that’s more cost. Good luck and don’t give up. Give me a holler if I can help with anything…
DO NOT BUY THE BACHMANN E-Z COMMAND. It has zero expandability, and is not compatable with other systems.
My choise is the digitrax zephyr. It is a starter set with all the bells and whistles. It is easily expandable with loconet and can have infa-red and radio. It supports all sound decoders, consisting and much more!! It is all you need for a small size/medium size layout. When you want to upgrade, buy the command station/ booster from digitrax. The zephyr will become a throttle and will not go to waste!!